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Helmholtz

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Helmholtz » Mon Aug 08, 2011 1:34 pm

lostpike wrote:How do you tell I suit will fit well before you have it tailored?
Almost all of what you're going to be looking for will be fit in the shoulders. Also be on the lookout for things that are too short or too small. There's a lot that a tailor can do, but when it comes to adding inches to the sleeves or altering the shoulders, there's only so much humanly possible.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by GeePee » Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:25 pm

Helmholtz wrote:
lostpike wrote:How do you tell I suit will fit well before you have it tailored?
Almost all of what you're going to be looking for will be fit in the shoulders. Also be on the lookout for things that are too short or too small. There's a lot that a tailor can do, but when it comes to adding inches to the sleeves or altering the shoulders, there's only so much humanly possible.
This is all correct. Just to elaborate, the length of the jacket and the fit of the shoulder pads are most important. The shoulder pads should cover your entire shoulder without protruding past. When you put your hand from the outside of the arm to up to the shoulder pad, you should feel minimal, if any, padding scrunch up. If you do, try the next size down. Also, the jacket should cover your bum, but shouldn't go more than about an inch past (and most people feel that if should be more or less exact).

Beyond that, you should be trying on multiple suit styles to get an idea of cut. All suits fit some body types better than others; there's no generic "best" suit cut. If you're skinny, a more European suit cut will serve you well (for example, you'll notice a difference trying on the Fitzgerald at Brooks Brothers and then trying a Madison; the former is tapered a considerable amount more). If you're short and stocky or have meat on your bones, American cuts are probably better (that same Fitzgerald will probably look pretty funky on you, while the Madison will fit quite well. Jos. A. Bank is another prototypical American cut. Older lines of Hickey Freeman are also similar, but they've added more modern European lines recently). Finding a suit that tapers correctly is rare, but it's worth looking at because it will look great and save you a LOT on tailoring.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Helmholtz » Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:33 pm

GeePee wrote:
Helmholtz wrote:
lostpike wrote:How do you tell I suit will fit well before you have it tailored?
Almost all of what you're going to be looking for will be fit in the shoulders. Also be on the lookout for things that are too short or too small. There's a lot that a tailor can do, but when it comes to adding inches to the sleeves or altering the shoulders, there's only so much humanly possible.
This is all correct. Just to elaborate, the length of the jacket and the fit of the shoulder pads are most important. The shoulder pads should cover your entire shoulder without protruding past. When you put your hand from the outside of the arm to up to the shoulder pad, you should feel minimal, if any, padding scrunch up. If you do, try the next size down. Also, the jacket should cover your bum, but shouldn't go more than about an inch past (and most people feel that if should be more or less exact).

Beyond that, you should be trying on multiple suit styles to get an idea of cut. All suits fit some body types better than others; there's no generic "best" suit cut. If you're skinny, a more European suit cut will serve you well (for example, you'll notice a difference trying on the Fitzgerald at Brooks Brothers and then trying a Madison; the former is tapered a considerable amount more). If you're short and stocky or have meat on your bones, American cuts are probably better (that same Fitzgerald will probably look pretty funky on you, while the Madison will fit quite well. Jos. A. Bank is another prototypical American cut. Older lines of Hickey Freeman are also similar, but they've added more modern European lines recently). Finding a suit that tapers correctly is rare, but it's worth looking at because it will look great and save you a LOT on tailoring.
Good summary. To follow up on that last point, I would also recommend finding out exactly what a tailor can do and how much specific alterations cost. Most people without a lot of suit-buying experience don't even think about having the sleeves taken in or how much something like that would cost, but it can influence your purchase decision. If you're deciding between two or more suits, it helps to know that Suit A is going to need XYZ alterations that should cost $X, and then compare that to the alterations needed for Suit B, C, and D.

And one more point (sorry). It's usually going to best to educate yourself on this instead of trusting the salesperson. More than once I've tried on a suit that didn't fit well in the shoulders at all, only to have a pushy salesperson (who acted like they knew what they were doing) come over and tell me that it would be "no problem" for a tailor to fix it for me or "that's the way they're supposed to fit." Yeah. Right.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by quakeroats » Mon Aug 08, 2011 3:18 pm

Kretzy wrote:
quakeroats wrote:
Kretzy wrote:Anyone know any good shoe sales (for black dress shoes) going on at the moment? I'm looking to spend $150-$200. It's the last bit of OCI wardrobe I need, so I'm hoping I didn't miss out on EVERY summer sale.
Good shoes will last decades. Double (or triple) your budget and you'll find a better deal. If you want to be cheap about it, buy shoes at a store with a forgiving return policy (Nordstrom) and take them back once OCI ends.
Thanks, but wasn't my question. I own several very nice pairs of shoes, none are black. I am looking for a pair of black shoes that will last several years, not decades. I don't need to spend $600 on shoes with my current budget.
My point is that you'll get appreciably better shoes if you're willing to spend slightly more. Again, if money is a concern, Nordstrom has a return policy that lets you return just about anything, in any condition, whenever you'd like.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by traehekat » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:52 pm

someone make me feel better about the money i just dropped on some AEs =/

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Helmholtz

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Helmholtz » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:53 pm

traehekat wrote:someone make me feel better about the money i just dropped on some AEs =/
They are going to be the difference between getting a job and not. Feel better now?

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Emma. » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:55 pm

traehekat wrote:someone make me feel better about the money i just dropped on some AEs =/
High quality leather is more nutritious than the cheap stuff.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by GeePee » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:56 pm

traehekat wrote:someone make me feel better about the money i just dropped on some AEs =/
As Helmholtz said, they'll get you a job.

Also, they'll last you 20 years, no problem. Just drop a couple of bucks to get them re-soled once a year or so and you'll be good to go.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by traehekat » Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:09 pm

Helmholtz wrote:
traehekat wrote:someone make me feel better about the money i just dropped on some AEs =/
They are going to be the difference between getting a job and not. Feel better now?
this is the only satisfactory response.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by beach_terror » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:05 pm

Just picked up my backup suit. Got a navy Calvin Klein suit from Macy's on a decent sale. It's only a backup suit if my primary gets messed up during OCI so I wasn't trying to splurge. It's a pindot navy, so it adds a little to the suit. Slim fit as well, so it hugs me pretty nice. Picked up two slim fits BB white shirts as backups too.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Lieut Kaffee » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:26 pm

Dark navy socks with charcoal suit and navy tie. Discuss.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Kilpatrick » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:27 pm

Socks should always match the pants. The chances of anyone seeing your socks at OCI are pretty slim though.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by lawgod » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:31 pm

Helmholtz wrote:
And one more point (sorry). It's usually going to best to educate yourself on this instead of trusting the salesperson. More than once I've tried on a suit that didn't fit well in the shoulders at all, only to have a pushy salesperson (who acted like they knew what they were doing) come over and tell me that it would be "no problem" for a tailor to fix it for me or "that's the way they're supposed to fit." Yeah. Right.
I always ask the tailor how it fits. I figure they want to tell you it needs work.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by emciosn » Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:11 am

Just got a few tailored fit wrinkle free Jos a Bank shirts (traveler collection). They have gotten some love and some hate in this thread so I though I'd comment. I like them, the material seems good and they really are wrinkle free. I hate ironing so I try to get shirts that will look decent right out of the dryer. I have had some pretty bad luck with "wrinkle-free" shirts in the past but these really looked good right out of the dryer.

If you are really skinny with broad shoulders you might have a hard time finding a Jos a Bank shirt that fits you. I'm a pretty big guy (like 6'2" 235) and the tailored fit is even a little big but not to the point where it looks like I have a bunch of extra shirt when I tuck it in. They are pretty long too but that is really a good think for taller people because they will stay tucked in over the course of the day. I would guess that you would have to be a pretty large person for the regular fit shirt to fit your correctly.

I got them for the 3 for 1 price. At that price I think they really are a good deal, probably wouldn't pay $87 for one though.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by kaiser » Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:13 am

emciosn wrote:Just got a few tailored fit wrinkle free Jos a Bank shirts (traveler collection). They have gotten some love and some hate in this thread so I though I'd comment. I like them, the material seems good and they really are wrinkle free. I hate ironing so I try to get shirts that will look decent right out of the dryer. I have had some pretty bad luck with "wrinkle-free" shirts in the past but these really looked good right out of the dryer.

If you are really skinny with broad shoulders you might have a hard time finding a Jos a Bank shirt that fits you. I'm a pretty big guy (like 6'2" 235) and the tailored fit is even a little big but not to the point where it looks like I have a bunch of extra shirt when I tuck it in. They are pretty long too but that is really a good think for taller people because they will stay tucked in over the course of the day. I would guess that you would have to be a pretty large person for the regular fit shirt to fit your correctly.

I got them for the 3 for 1 price. At that price I think they really are a good deal, probably wouldn't pay $87 for one though.
I love the material and feel of those shirts as well, and 3 for 87 is a great deal.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by emciosn » Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:28 am

kaiser wrote:
I love the material and feel of those shirts as well, and 3 for 87 is a great deal.
Yeah I noticed the material has a different feel than some of the other shirts I have bought recently. I don't know if it is a sturdier feeling material or what but I like the feel of them as well.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Bronte » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:11 pm

What would you wear to have coffee with a partner at a law firm? I have a formal outside-OCI interview with the firm the week before. The partner I'm meeting is a distant family friend whom I've never met before.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by OutCold » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:35 pm

Bronte wrote:What would you wear to have coffee with a partner at a law firm? I have a formal outside-OCI interview with the firm the week before. The partner I'm meeting is a distant family friend whom I've never met before.
I had a few of these, though I wasn't in the running for a job at the time (just networking lunches and chats). I went with the suit when I met with partners in the office, mainly because I was always taught to dress the same way that the person you are meeting would be dressed. Some would say that a suit is too formal for a casual meeting like that, but several times the partner invited friends to eat with us and all were wearing suits. I would have felt kind of awkward being the odd man out in business casual. You can always dress down by taking off your jacket once you are there, but you can't dress up.

This is assuming a biglaw office, though I suppose my recommendation would remain the same regardless. Ultimately, it's whatever you feel comfortable with.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Bronte » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:43 pm

OutCold wrote:
Bronte wrote:What would you wear to have coffee with a partner at a law firm? I have a formal outside-OCI interview with the firm the week before. The partner I'm meeting is a distant family friend whom I've never met before.
I had a few of these, though I wasn't in the running for a job at the time (just networking lunches and chats). I went with the suit when I met with partners in the office, mainly because I was always taught to dress the same way that the person you are meeting would be dressed. Some would say that a suit is too formal for a casual meeting like that, but several times the partner invited friends to eat with us and all were wearing suits. I would have felt kind of awkward being the odd man out in business casual. You can always dress down by taking off your jacket once you are there, but you can't dress up.

This is assuming a biglaw office, though I suppose my recommendation would remain the same regardless. Ultimately, it's whatever you feel comfortable with.
It is a big law firm, but I assume we will be meeting at a cafe.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by emciosn » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:49 pm

OutCold wrote:
Bronte wrote:What would you wear to have coffee with a partner at a law firm? I have a formal outside-OCI interview with the firm the week before. The partner I'm meeting is a distant family friend whom I've never met before.
I had a few of these, though I wasn't in the running for a job at the time (just networking lunches and chats). I went with the suit when I met with partners in the office, mainly because I was always taught to dress the same way that the person you are meeting would be dressed. Some would say that a suit is too formal for a casual meeting like that, but several times the partner invited friends to eat with us and all were wearing suits. I would have felt kind of awkward being the odd man out in business casual. You can always dress down by taking off your jacket once you are there, but you can't dress up.

This is assuming a biglaw office, though I suppose my recommendation would remain the same regardless. Ultimately, it's whatever you feel comfortable with.
I've had a few meetings with summer for lunches etc. When I went to the office to meet a partner for lunch I wore a suit and tie. He was a nice guy and said I could take off my jacket but it wasn't uncomfortable (they are business casual in the summer so I was a little overdressed). All in all I don't think you can go wrong being overdressed. If you are going to the office I would say suit up.

I met a partner from a different firm for a beer after work one day and I just wore slacks and a button down and it was ok. He was just coming from work so he had a suit on but he took off his jacket and rolled up his sleeves. I don't think you want to look too formal at an informal meeting. In the office though I would say go more formal.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by GeePee » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:52 pm

Any idea what the firm's dress code is?

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Bronte » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:58 pm

GeePee wrote:Any idea what the firm's dress code is?
No but it's in a West Coast city. We'll probably meet in a Starbucks or something. I have a feeling a suit will be overdoing it, but I'll probably end up wearing one anyway.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by emciosn » Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:02 pm

Bronte wrote:
GeePee wrote:Any idea what the firm's dress code is?
No but it's in a West Coast city. We'll probably meet in a Starbucks or something. I have a feeling a suit will be overdoing it, but I'll probably end up wearing one anyway.
Maybe a suit with no tie? I would probably go with a button down and slacks but its better to err on the side over doing it I suppose.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Bronte » Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:08 pm

emciosn wrote:
Bronte wrote:
GeePee wrote:Any idea what the firm's dress code is?
No but it's in a West Coast city. We'll probably meet in a Starbucks or something. I have a feeling a suit will be overdoing it, but I'll probably end up wearing one anyway.
Maybe a suit with no tie? I would probably go with a button down and slacks but its better to err on the side over doing it I suppose.
Yeah I might do a suit with no tie. I pretty much wear that look any chance I get.

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Re: OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by GeePee » Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:12 pm

Bronte wrote:
emciosn wrote:
Bronte wrote:
GeePee wrote:Any idea what the firm's dress code is?
No but it's in a West Coast city. We'll probably meet in a Starbucks or something. I have a feeling a suit will be overdoing it, but I'll probably end up wearing one anyway.
Maybe a suit with no tie? I would probably go with a button down and slacks but its better to err on the side over doing it I suppose.
Yeah I might do a suit with no tie. I pretty much wear that look any chance I get.
I like suit/no tie because it's tasteful, but easily convertible into a casual look if you happen to be meeting on casual Friday.

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