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Spor

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OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

Post by Spor » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:24 pm

I want to pick up a new suit or two before heading off to law school. My previous life experiences haven't required me to own a suit, so I'm a bit of a suit noob.

What are the unspoken rules of attire in the legal community? What is appropriate for interviews and other law related events? I've read other places that black is a definite no for any business environment. 2-button or 3-button? Pleats or no pleats? Any suit knowledge is appreciated.

I vaguely remember a thread on TLS about what not to wear to an interview, which is why I'm asking this question.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by spondee » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:27 pm

Spor wrote:I've read other places that black is a definite no for any business environment.
Is that true? What's wrong with black?

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Fac Ut Gaudeam

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Fac Ut Gaudeam » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:28 pm

Some good tips.

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Fac Ut Gaudeam

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Fac Ut Gaudeam » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:43 pm

betasteve wrote:Pleats are a no-go unless you are carrying extra weight, then perhaps.
I think that would only exacerbate it.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by stevenr18 » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:57 pm

betasteve wrote:
spondee wrote:
Spor wrote:I've read other places that black is a definite no for any business environment.
Is that true? What's wrong with black?
Black is reserved for evening and mourning.

OP - Stick with grey or navy. Both are equally versatile, and should serve you for some time. 2 or 3 button is a matter of preference. Pleats are a no-go unless you are carrying extra weight, then perhaps.
+1 to all of this. Center vs. side vent is also a matter of preference, but do not go ventless (as the GQ link says). You see ventless jackets a lot in TV shows and movies because it gives a better silhouette on camera, but in real life they're impractical - too much sitting, moving, etc.

Also, depending on your body type, you may not be able to buy off the rack. Most nested suits (pants and jacket together) come with pants 6" smaller than the jacket size (i.e. 42 jacket, 36 waist in the pants). If you're off either way, most stores sell separates. Frankly, unless your waist is exactly 6" smaller than your chest, separates are probably a good option since you can save some on tailoring.

Agreed on the no pleats, unless there's some extra heft. No pleats means no cuff.

Finally, since you're building a wardrobe, go with solids. One grey/charcoal, one navy. Solids are much more versatile, so you can get by for a while before branching out into stripes and patterns.

I used to sell suits. Hence the unnecessarily long response.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Kohinoor » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:59 pm

Spor wrote:I want to pick up a new suit or two before heading off to law school. My previous life experiences haven't required me to own a suit, so I'm a bit of a suit noob.

What are the unspoken rules of attire in the legal community? What is appropriate for interviews and other law related events? I've read other places that black is a definite no for any business environment. 2-button or 3-button? Pleats or no pleats? Any suit knowledge is appreciated.

I vaguely remember a thread on TLS about what not to wear to an interview, which is why I'm asking this question.
I worked at a biglaw firm. The attorneys weren't averse to wearing black to court but did tend to have non-black suits for client meetings. Black is a bit severe I guess.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by google » Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:19 pm

Pleats + cuffs ftw

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by mwazaumoja » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:09 pm

When is it appropriate to wear a tan suit?

I see a few people wearing them in the summer, is that acceptable?

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Fac Ut Gaudeam

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Fac Ut Gaudeam » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:11 pm

mwazaumoja wrote:When is it appropriate to wear a tan suit?

I see a few people wearing them in the summer, is that acceptable?
I have a J.Crew Italian chino suit that I wear during the summer. Works great for me.
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by YankeeFan » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:35 pm

My father uses a farily prominent custom tailor, and, thus I also have a few suits from him.


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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Someperson » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:37 pm

YankeeFan wrote:My father uses a farily prominent tailor, and, thus I also have a few suits from him.


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His name's Sam Walton.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by jrs12 » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:32 pm

Few random thoughts:

Don't go out and buy one right now unless you need it right now. Clothing markups are huge, so wait for a good sale. Get on a few mailing lists, and you'll be notified of half-yearly sales, and other good events.

"Charcoal" and "midnight navy" look black under artificial lighting. Under sunlight, or to a trained eye, they have a little color. If you buy a fine suit (not from a fashion house), then it's unlikely to be black.

Cuffs are fine on flat-front pants. In fact, it's a very east-coast, preppy kind of look.

Don't get the sleeves too long. Almost everyone wears their coat sleeves too long. You should show 1/4-1/2 an inch of linen when your arms are hanging naturally.

The Brooks Brothers 1818 line is a nice, middle-of-the-road option. They're about $900 full retail, but you can easily get them on sale. They're widely available.

If you want the most bang for your buck, I'd go with Samuelsohn. They make really excellent suits, in the US, for reasonable prices.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by MeTalkPrettyOneDay » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:38 pm

2-buttons are more trendy now. I'd go with a 2-button.

I definitely wouldn't go solid black, although I do like a good dark pinstripe every once in a while. However, as some other posters have suggested, a charcoal or navy suit is a pretty good bet. I recommend charcoal or navy.

Keep the pattern muted if you do buy a suit with a pattern.

Go single-breasted.

Cuffs and pleats are totally your call - pick whichever hangs best on you.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by dextermorgan » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:48 pm

GET IT TAILORED!!!

that is all

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by jackrabbitjones » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:53 pm

You're going to like the way you look. I guarantee it.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by jrs12 » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:56 pm

RE: buttons

There is actually such thing as a 3 button jacket on which the lapel rolls over the top button, making it look almost like a 2 button. This middle road is my preferred style.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by YankeeFan » Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:16 pm

dextermorgan wrote:GET IT TAILORED!!!

that is all
Exactly, pay the money and get a fine, hand-made custom-tailored suit. And contrary to what that buffoon above posted, clothing markups are LOW right now because of the economy.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Kohinoor » Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:20 pm

betasteve wrote:Also.. in case anyone isn't aware: Unbutton your jacket when sitting, button it when standing. Never ever button the bottom button.
Oh god. I've always left the top unbuttoned. Please tell me you're joking.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by vamedic03 » Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:36 pm

stevenr18 wrote:
betasteve wrote:
spondee wrote:
Spor wrote:I've read other places that black is a definite no for any business environment.
Is that true? What's wrong with black?
Black is reserved for evening and mourning.

OP - Stick with grey or navy. Both are equally versatile, and should serve you for some time. 2 or 3 button is a matter of preference. Pleats are a no-go unless you are carrying extra weight, then perhaps.
+1 to all of this. Center vs. side vent is also a matter of preference, but do not go ventless (as the GQ link says). You see ventless jackets a lot in TV shows and movies because it gives a better silhouette on camera, but in real life they're impractical - too much sitting, moving, etc.

Also, depending on your body type, you may not be able to buy off the rack. Most nested suits (pants and jacket together) come with pants 6" smaller than the jacket size (i.e. 42 jacket, 36 waist in the pants). If you're off either way, most stores sell separates. Frankly, unless your waist is exactly 6" smaller than your chest, separates are probably a good option since you can save some on tailoring.

Agreed on the no pleats, unless there's some extra heft. No pleats means no cuff.

Finally, since you're building a wardrobe, go with solids. One grey/charcoal, one navy. Solids are much more versatile, so you can get by for a while before branching out into stripes and patterns.

I used to sell suits. Hence the unnecessarily long response.
I disagree with the no pleats... While in slacks, pants, etc. pleats look awful, in suits they serve the distinct purpose of allowing you to sit comfortably. Also, good luck finding non-pleated pants with HSM, Hickey Freeman, etc...

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by CupOfJava » Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:51 pm

So any tips for suits for women? I've never had to wear one for work, and am generally clueless with suit etiquette.

Skirt types? Pencil or A-line? Are pants OK? What about shoes, are flats acceptable?

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by stevenr18 » Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:56 pm

vamedic03 wrote:
stevenr18 wrote:
betasteve wrote:
spondee wrote:/quote]

Is that true? What's wrong with black?
Black is reserved for evening and mourning.

OP - Stick with grey or navy. Both are equally versatile, and should serve you for some time. 2 or 3 button is a matter of preference. Pleats are a no-go unless you are carrying extra weight, then perhaps.
+1 to all of this. Center vs. side vent is also a matter of preference, but do not go ventless (as the GQ link says). You see ventless jackets a lot in TV shows and movies because it gives a better silhouette on camera, but in real life they're impractical - too much sitting, moving, etc.

Also, depending on your body type, you may not be able to buy off the rack. Most nested suits (pants and jacket together) come with pants 6" smaller than the jacket size (i.e. 42 jacket, 36 waist in the pants). If you're off either way, most stores sell separates. Frankly, unless your waist is exactly 6" smaller than your chest, separates are probably a good option since you can save some on tailoring.

Agreed on the no pleats, unless there's some extra heft. No pleats means no cuff.

Finally, since you're building a wardrobe, go with solids. One grey/charcoal, one navy. Solids are much more versatile, so you can get by for a while before branching out into stripes and patterns.

I used to sell suits. Hence the unnecessarily long response.
I disagree with the no pleats... While in slacks, pants, etc. pleats look awful, in suits they serve the distinct purpose of allowing you to sit comfortably. Also, good luck finding non-pleated pants with HSM, Hickey Freeman, etc...
Fair point. The pleats are more functional in a suit, and don't look bad at all, I just prefer the look of plain front pants. Then again, having worked at Jos. A. Bank, most of my pants are pleated. So, you know, maybe it's just a grass is greener situation.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by youpiiz » Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:02 pm

.
Last edited by youpiiz on Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by Dick Whitman » Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:10 pm

jrs12 wrote:Few random thoughts:

Don't go out and buy one right now unless you need it right now. Clothing markups are huge, so wait for a good sale. Get on a few mailing lists, and you'll be notified of half-yearly sales, and other good events.

The Brooks Brothers 1818 line is a nice, middle-of-the-road option. They're about $900 full retail, but you can easily get them on sale. They're widely available.
I'm a fan of the Brooks Brothers suits (along with most of the rest of their clothes). Get on the mailing list, and wait until they offer a two for one sale, then pick up a charcoal gray and a navy.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by cakewalker » Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:17 pm

Dick Whitman wrote:I'm a fan of the Brooks Brothers suits (along with most of the rest of their clothes). Get on the mailing list, and wait until they offer a two for one sale, then pick up a charcoal gray and a navy.
Definitely agreed when it comes to Brooks Brothers suits. If you do decide Brooks Brothers, sign up for a Brooks Card when you buy multiple suits. They'll take an extra discount on this first purchase, even if there's another sale going on.

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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Post by kbigs » Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:23 pm

jrs12 wrote:
The Brooks Brothers 1818 line is a nice, middle-of-the-road option. They're about $900 full retail, but you can easily get them on sale. They're widely available.
+1: Just got one from a brooks bros sample sale in NYC for $300.

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