OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

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scaredstiff165
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby scaredstiff165 » Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:33 pm

D. Professor wrote:
Tave wrote:Does anyone else call "braces" "suspenders?"


I do.... but I am from the South so thats to be expected. 8)


I've never heard them called braces!

texaslawyer
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby texaslawyer » Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:39 pm

I've heard then called gallouses as well. I too live in South.

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D. Professor
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby D. Professor » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:28 pm

I am probably late in posting a reply to aid in your suit quest, however knowing the do's and don'ts of buying and caring for a suit are important to digest. A suit says a lot about a man, before he even opens his mouth to speak. In majority of the cases, having a basic, wool blend, versatile, navy, 2 - button suit can go a lllllooonnnggggg way. If you are thinking of buying a suit off the rack from retailers (like Macy's or Dillards), STEER CLEAR. Unless you know the do's and dont's of men's suits, its best to steer clear of "fashionable" & "trendy" monikers sold in retail department stores such as CK, Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, Ralph Lauren, Sean John, etc... unless you KNOW how to purchase a suit properly (see this link for a general run down http://www.soyouwanna.com/site/syws/menssuit/menssuit.html)

Companies such as Brooks Brothers, Mens Warehouse, S&K Mensware, and Jos A Banks are FAR better to purchase your first suit from, unless you can afford to have one tailor made for you (tailor made suits are best being they are made to fit YOU, unlike retailers and men store company's which use general fits and build around to accomodate your body.)

Good luck in your suit quest. :)

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OperaAttorney
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby OperaAttorney » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:36 pm

D. Professor wrote:I am probably late in posting a reply to aid in your suit quest, however knowing the do's and don'ts of buying and caring for a suit are important to digest. A suit says a lot about a man, before he even opens his mouth to speak. In majority of the cases, having a basic, wool blend, versatile, navy, 2 - button suit can go a lllllooonnnggggg way. If you are thinking of buying a suit off the rack from retailers (like Macy's or Dillards), STEER CLEAR. Unless you know the do's and dont's of men's suits, its best to steer clear of "fashionable" & "trendy" monikers sold in retail department stores such as CK, Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, Ralph Lauren, Sean John, etc... unless you KNOW how to purchase a suit properly (see this link for a general run down http://www.soyouwanna.com/site/syws/menssuit/menssuit.html)

Companies such as Brooks Brothers, Mens Warehouse, S&K Mensware, and Jos A Banks are FAR better to purchase your first suit from, unless you can afford to have one tailor made for you (tailor made suits are best being they are made to fit YOU, unlike retailers and men store company's which use general fits and build around to accomodate your body.)

Good luck in your suit quest. :)


I disagree. Ralph Lauren and Sean John make nice suits, especially if you're muscular with broad shoulders. And they aren't hard to get fitted. What's important about suits, in addition to general construction, is how well the specific cut fits one's frame. Not all designers cut their suits with, say, a muscular frame in mind.

Now I've never worn a Brooks Brothers suit--but that's because I deem the Brooks Brothers line excessively conservative and boring.

JRR
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby JRR » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:46 pm

Fac Ut Gaudeam wrote:
JRR wrote:
betasteve wrote:
spondee wrote:Is that true? What's wrong with black?

Black is reserved for evening and mourning.

OP - Stick with grey or navy. Both are equally versatile, and should serve you for some time. 2 or 3 button is a matter of preference. Pleats are a no-go unless you are carrying extra weight, then perhaps.


Pleats are fine.


For the most part, not really. Flat fronts lend themselves for a cleaner silhouette and just look better on most people. There was a topic on this before and I remember almost all the TLS ladies giving pleats a clear thumbs down. This especially holds true for men under 35 yo.


I've worn both, and pleats fit me better. For fat asses like myself, flat fronts don't fit well.

My point was in the professional world, you can wear either, and no one will care.

And I could give a shit about what the women think. Women are slaves to trendy fashion. You really shouldn't listen to them when it comes to professional clothes.

texaslawyer
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby texaslawyer » Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:19 pm

A good everyday work suit is Jones-New York. They convey an understated confident message. I've got two, one solid blue three button and a blue pinstripe 4 button. I agree that one maybe too edgy for an initial interview. Talk about a fashion faux paus, a friend of mine wore an abosolutely stunning Armani suit, with Ferragamo shoes, burgundy Ermengildo Zegna tie, with a short sleeved shirt to an interview. I WAS MORTIFIED !!! Talk about a head hunter in Versailles !!!! I do believe that fashion does matter in the legal profession, I don't say one has to have a closet full of Armani suits, but you sure better look like you belong there. I read about a law firm in Dallas that requires attorneys to suit up everyday and they have an "advisor" who will subtlely inform you if what you are wearing doen't match or look professional. Also, make damn sure your shoes are shined and your nails are clean and manicured. The first two things people look at are your nails and shoes.

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OperaAttorney
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby OperaAttorney » Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:44 pm

betasteve wrote:
OperaAttorney wrote:
D. Professor wrote:I am probably late in posting a reply to aid in your suit quest, however knowing the do's and don'ts of buying and caring for a suit are important to digest. A suit says a lot about a man, before he even opens his mouth to speak. In majority of the cases, having a basic, wool blend, versatile, navy, 2 - button suit can go a lllllooonnnggggg way. If you are thinking of buying a suit off the rack from retailers (like Macy's or Dillards), STEER CLEAR. Unless you know the do's and dont's of men's suits, its best to steer clear of "fashionable" & "trendy" monikers sold in retail department stores such as CK, Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, Ralph Lauren, Sean John, etc... unless you KNOW how to purchase a suit properly (see this link for a general run down http://www.soyouwanna.com/site/syws/menssuit/menssuit.html)

Companies such as Brooks Brothers, Mens Warehouse, S&K Mensware, and Jos A Banks are FAR better to purchase your first suit from, unless you can afford to have one tailor made for you (tailor made suits are best being they are made to fit YOU, unlike retailers and men store company's which use general fits and build around to accomodate your body.)

Good luck in your suit quest. :)


I disagree. Ralph Lauren and Sean John make nice suits, especially if you're muscular with broad shoulders. And they aren't hard to get fitted. What's important about suits, in addition to general construction, is how well the specific cut fits one's frame. Not all designers cut their suits with, say, a muscular frame in mind.

Now I've never worn a Brooks Brothers suit--but that's because I deem the Brooks Brothers line excessively conservative and boring.

Ralph Lauren is alright, but imo Sean Jean suits are a bit ostentatious for standard business wear, especially in the legal world. In another industry, such as sales, perhaps they work well.


Have you looked at the full range of Sean Jean suits? I've seen some conservative ones. In fact, I once dated an HLS alum who swore by them. He worked for a V10 firm.

tagc
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby tagc » Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:15 pm

Spor wrote:I want to pick up a new suit or two before heading off to law school. My previous life experiences haven't required me to own a suit, so I'm a bit of a suit noob.

What are the unspoken rules of attire in the legal community? What is appropriate for interviews and other law related events? I've read other places that black is a definite no for any business environment. 2-button or 3-button? Pleats or no pleats? Any suit knowledge is appreciated.

I vaguely remember a thread on TLS about what not to wear to an interview, which is why I'm asking this question.


You will not go wrong with a DARK Navy blue. It will almost look black in most lighting conditions, but will look navy under bright lights.

I personally think this is the most professional color to wear for interviews, although other colors such as charcoal are fine as well.

I prefer 2-button suits, but that is just because they fit my body better (wider chest area).

I don't know if double-breasted suits are good or not. I like the single-breast look myself.

Also, make sure you have a vent in the back. Either single or double is fine, but the suits without any vents tend to roll around your neck area and don't look good.

Make sure your arms are adjusted so that you show a little undershirt cuff (roughly .25- 1 inch) and you will look great.

Match your belt with your shoes. A good store puts their belts right next to their shoes. You want the same color/texture.

That's all I can think of for now. Hope it helps.

For fit, I was told to make sure the top button does not "pull". This means that when you button it up, the button is not being pulled to either side because it is tight. The button should sit perfectly straight, should be relaxed and be snug. Also make sure there aren't any weird indentations where the arm meets the shoulder. Get the right fit for the chest (check the button pull) and the shoulders/arm. Don't worry about arm length (too long) as that can be adjusted by a tailor.

CupOfJava
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby CupOfJava » Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:00 pm

youpiiz, thanks for the response! I've worked in social services, teaching, and now video games. Suits not needed, and I haven't bought one in years.

OperaAttorney wrote:
cbreault wrote:
CupOfJava wrote:So any tips for suits for women? I've never had to wear one for work, and am generally clueless with suit etiquette.

Skirt types? Pencil or A-line? Are pants OK? What about shoes, are flats acceptable?


No undies.


Regardless of height, flats are a no-no. Embrace your inner diva! Fierce ladies always rock heels.


I hate heels, and have fruitlessly searched for years to find a pair of flats that could substitute for heels. I avoid them like the plague. I always tower over people in heels. Even worse are stilettos.
The modern man has is so much easier.

356a
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby 356a » Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:32 am

1. Definately dark blue and shades of darker grays.
2. for starting out, keep the patterns plain and simple, if any. You can alternate suits by alternating your shirts.
3. shirt staples should be white, blue, conservative stripes and when you get a real flair later go for more exotics.
4. shirts should ALWAYS be 100 percent cotton - and yes we can tell right away.
5. don't go too fitted in shirts. your choices will be button down, spread or straight collars, and french cuff (cuff links required) or button cuffs. Button down is not as professional of a look. those aspiring to the wachtell's, skadden's, etc should avoid. Spread or straight collars is a function of your face shape.
6. French cuffs are great if you have nice cuff links but don't forgot to pack them then on business trips. In a bind, bend a paper clip to work. and those silk knot cuff links are cheap and elegant.
7. make sure neck fit is proper - too tight bad and too lose messes up the ties
8. ties - always silks. for wall street look, hermes, ferragamo, etc. i prefer subtle patterns.
9. wear belts. don't wear braces (yes they are called that, but you are too young for them as it appears too grand standing now)
10. pleats - don't go there. not too professional.
11. make sure your suits aren't too shiny. they need to be all wool. there is a summer weight, winter weight and mid weight. go lighter weight (but not pure summer weight) for your first suits.
12. socks - black and mid or over calf. wool.
13. fit of suit - either 2 button or 3 button rolled to the second button. don't button bottom buttton.
14. make sure your sleeves have buttons on them.
15. make sure sleeves are proper length, break of pants in back doesn't touch floor
16. brooks brothers is a good place to buy these less expensive first suits as they will fit in everything to your wall street look. as you get more $$ and confidence, brioni, kiton, etc are awesome.
17. make sure your suit is tailored. meaning fit and altered from off the rack.
18. most important fit is the shoulders. but if too much fabric has to be taken in it could be bad fit. you DO NOT want too much of an hour glass fit. different suits are cut for different bodies and it needs to be pretty close to begin with. pants can be completely recut but can get expensive to begin with. if you are starting with a waist size like 4 or 6 inches too big then the seats will be huge in them and unless completely recut everywhere not just taken in they will never fit right.

Ladies -

we men are tougher to criticize your look. we lack the confidence. ann taylor, liz clairborn are apparently the brooks equivalent (I don't go to brooks, but i did when i started. i am a kiton, brioni fan now - well pre september!)

no big heels though. no open toes. skirts nice but keep them around the knee i would think. same muted colors. nothing too tight.
Last edited by 356a on Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.

AverageGuy
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby AverageGuy » Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:49 am

Has anyone tried the HongKong tailor for custom suits? I am a hard-to-fit size (very tall) and the longs in Brooks Bros., etc. don't have enough fabric to be tailored to fit.

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UandIaresplittsville
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby UandIaresplittsville » Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:49 pm

texaslawyer wrote:Never, ever wear a brown suit for an interview, especially if the interviewer is Jewish.


Can you (or someone) give me a rationale for this? I'm not offended (or Jewish) but I can't imagine why this is the case. ???

hovi
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby hovi » Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:06 pm

AbsolutLax wrote:I actually prefer dark purple. It says, I care about my clients...but I keep my pimp hand strong.



LOL. amazing

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Fac Ut Gaudeam
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Fac Ut Gaudeam » Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:26 pm

betasteve wrote:356a had a pretty good list, but there is one error.

His #12 calls for black socks, where actually your socks must function as an extension of your trouser legs to your shoes, thus you should wear socks in the primary color of your suit.


Also, wear black shoes with grey suits and most navy suits. A deep brown shoe does go well with the right color navy suit. Of course brown shoes with tan suits.


Brown shoes can work with a lot of gray suits.
--ImageRemoved--
The darker the gray, usually the darker the brown needed, and with charcoal, you're probably safer with black.

google
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby google » Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:54 pm

356a wrote:10. pleats - don't go there. not too professional.


I've always been by tailors and lawyers that pleats are more professional, while non-pleated is more business casual.

socalgirl818
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby socalgirl818 » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:07 pm

CupOfJava wrote:youpiiz, thanks for the response! I've worked in social services, teaching, and now video games. Suits not needed, and I haven't bought one in years.

OperaAttorney wrote:
cbreault wrote:
CupOfJava wrote:So any tips for suits for women? I've never had to wear one for work, and am generally clueless with suit etiquette.

Skirt types? Pencil or A-line? Are pants OK? What about shoes, are flats acceptable?


No undies.


Regardless of height, flats are a no-no. Embrace your inner diva! Fierce ladies always rock heels.


I hate heels, and have fruitlessly searched for years to find a pair of flats that could substitute for heels. I avoid them like the plague. I always tower over people in heels. Even worse are stilettos.
The modern man has is so much easier.


+1

I'm 6'3 in a pair of conservative heels. :shock:

ApplicantInWI
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby ApplicantInWI » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:08 pm

jackrabbitjones wrote:You're going to like the way you look. I guarantee it.

--ImageRemoved--


LOLOLOLOLOLOL! I love it!

356a
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby 356a » Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:15 pm

i will add a few more:

go for classic lace up shoes - smooth toe caps are preference. loafers, especially with tassles stand out too much and aren't classic. square toes, no. I prefer Church shoes (brand).

socks - all right, either black or navy blue, no other colors.

if you are short, never braces.

overcoat - in NYC, want a rain coat and a wool or cashmere overcoat. leather lined gloves too. stick with navy blue overcoats, or a tan burberry.

briefcases - young i-banker analysts always come in with these thin things. never use them. you will be carrying lots of stuff - they need to be big. in a pinch, a canvas tote works.

travel - fewer bags better. you will find out.

winter in nyc - rubbers for the shoes. yeah, we don't like them but when you ruin a pair of $300 or 400 shoes from getting them wet/salty you will know why.

never place a suit jacket over a chair - fold it and lay it over but don't hang it on the chair. ruins it.

enough of this. good luck.

CupOfJava
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby CupOfJava » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:00 pm

socalgirl818 wrote:+1

I'm 6'3 in a pair of conservative heels. :shock:


Wow. I'm 5'10" in heels. I cannot express how much I hate heels.

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RussianGirl
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby RussianGirl » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:12 pm

CupOfJava wrote:
socalgirl818 wrote:+1

I'm 6'3 in a pair of conservative heels. :shock:


Wow. I'm 5'10" in heels. I cannot express how much I hate heels.

+2... my feet hurt! I can't spend more than 2 hours in heels, unless I'm drinking. As far as suits go, I plan on buying out Victoria's Secret:

Image

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atlantalaw
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby atlantalaw » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:25 pm

i didn't even know victorias secret had suits

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RussianGirl
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby RussianGirl » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:30 pm

atlantalaw wrote:i didn't even know victorias secret had suits

They have everything. And they make it sexy!

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atlantalaw
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby atlantalaw » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:32 pm

RussianGirl wrote:
atlantalaw wrote:i didn't even know victorias secret had suits

They have everything. And they make it sexy!


thanks, i learn something new every day! i feel pretty out of the loop though considering i was just at vs *yesterday*

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grobbelski
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby grobbelski » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:36 pm

Tave wrote:Does anyone else call "braces" "suspenders?"


Yes, I was confused to this point until I figured out a brace is what I call or suspenders.

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grobbelski
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby grobbelski » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:52 pm

Fac Ut Gaudeam wrote:
pany1985 wrote:
h_frog_88 wrote:Does anyone else call "braces" "suspenders?"



Until tonight I had never heard the term braces



"Braces" is generally the UK term for suspenders and the tailor I go to uses the term, hence me using it now. Suspenders have a somewhat stodgy image in the US and are probably most associated with this guy:
Image
When I think "braces" I think something like this:
Image


+1 and touche sir, upon reading about braces and then realizing they were what I had known as suspenders, I knew I was on the wrong side of the railroad tracks.




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