OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread Forum

[Flips88]

Got a pair of AE Park Aves in my ginormous size on eBay for $39. Win.

[Nova]

Nice! I'm going to be looking out for a pair before OCI for sure

[Anonymous User]

Re:BB... I am 6 ft 220, not a fatty but certainly far from slim. I wear Extra slim fit, which I find absurd given my dimensions, my large chest, and my quasi-beer belly. Slim fit is simply too big and poofy.

pics or it didn't happen

I'd believe it. I'm 6' 200lbs and the Extra Slim has room to spare on me... EXCEPT the cuffs, which are the reason I wear the slim instead.

And BB non-iron shirts are the only shirts I wear. Every day.

[Anon just to protect my handle's identity, since my classmates would know me reading this.]

[Pufer]

1. What color suit would you recommend for this third suit? My current charcoal suit is certainly wearable (I've also worn it to interviews that I have gotten offers from, and have had no comments). I'm leaning towards getting either a second charcoal suit or a somewhat lighter grey suit. I probably don't need the suit for interviews, but I like the idea of having an alternative to my navy suit---especially since I'm not convinced my navy suit's exactly perfect (and navy's not quite as conservative as charcoal, right?). I'm also considering doing some sort of really really subtle pinstripe/other pattern, and maybe getting something cut a little less conservative so that I have a suit that I can wear in social situations and to work. If people on the board strongly recommend it, I guess I'd consider getting even two suits (a social suit and an interview suit) -- but my budget for this stuff isn't infinite.

Navy is every bit as conservative as charcoal. My usual recommendation is a medium gray for a third suit, but a subtle pinstripe would be fine as well.

2. What would you do in my circumstance? Do you think OTR with tailoring is the best bet, and if so, what brands generally look good on shorter and more slender men? Probably BB and JOB are out, right?

Unless you really want to, I don't see any particular reason why you'd need to go MTM or Bespoke at this time in your career (or any suit at all if you're clerking; I know a number of 9th and 10th Circuit clerks who can show up in jeans for all their judge cares), unless your torso really is very weirdly shaped. I also really don't think 5'8 with a 32 inch waist is all that short or slender (an attorney friend of mine is 5'4 and weighs like 115 - he's short and slender), it's just that most suits are cut for much fatter folks (those made by BB and JAB included).

Just wander around and try some stuff on at a Nordstrom Rack (probably avoid Abboud and maybe HSM, and lean towards the more fashionable brands for a slimmer cut and less constructed shoulders; I'm betting some of the Turkey-made Hugo Boss stuff in short sizes would fit you pretty well for well under $500 if you can find it at the Rack). Fit everything to your shoulders, and tailor from there.

4. If you recommend MTM/bespoke, how should I go about getting an appropriate suit? I've read pufer's suit guide but am pretty nervous about applying that in practice in the context of MTM (partially b/c of my bespoke misadventures from earlier). On a related note, what sort of fabrics should I be looking into? FWIW I'll be in a big city next year that gets very hot (and humid) in the summer and very cold in the winter.

If you do go bespoke, you're looking for a regular, solid-quality, three-season wool (which is all everyone should really ever need IMO; I've worn three season wool suits on icy -10 degree mornings in Denver, and will be wearing a three season wool suit tomorrow when it's sunny and 119 in Phoenix). It's sometimes uncomfortable, but any other fabric will give you a less versatile suit, and won't be that much more comfortable anyway (if it's too hot outside for the few minutes per day you're not in your air conditioned office, take off your jacket and say fuck you to any asshole who gives you shit about it, and don't buy a bunch of $600 seersucker suits that will be hotter than your shirtsleeves anyway; if it's too cold, put on an overcoat, and don't buy a bunch of thick-ass flannel suits that will make you sweat when you go back inside). If you're looking for an easy-to-find reference, go to JAB and check out a solid-colored Signature wool suit and get fabric that nice or nicer.

-Pufer

[Cicero76]

So at 5'10" and 130lbs (I'm a waif), even the BB extra slim fit shirts have a little bit of parachute on me. They do fit better than any other dress shirt ever has, but is there any way I can get a shirt made for Flat Stanley without going MtM?

[wvu]

So at 5'10" and 130lbs (I'm a waif), even the BB extra slim fit shirts have a little bit of parachute on me. They do fit better than any other dress shirt ever has, but is there any way I can get a shirt made for Flat Stanley without going MtM?

Might be cheaper to just get them tailored.

[bk1]

So at 5'10" and 130lbs (I'm a waif), even the BB extra slim fit shirts have a little bit of parachute on me. They do fit better than any other dress shirt ever has, but is there any way I can get a shirt made for Flat Stanley without going MtM?

BB really is one of the largest brands in existence. Actually slim (but expensive) I've found are Hugo Boss, Kent Wang, and Thomas Pink. Ledbury might be slim as well but I haven't tried them.

[nevdash]

So at 5'10" and 130lbs (I'm a waif), even the BB extra slim fit shirts have a little bit of parachute on me. They do fit better than any other dress shirt ever has, but is there any way I can get a shirt made for Flat Stanley without going MtM?

You might want to try Banana Republic Stretch Slim Fits. They're made of ok material and look nice, and they come in XS. I'm 5'10" 160, and S fits me like a glove. I own five of the plain white ones; you can usually stock up when BR has one of their semi-regular 40% off sales, which brings the shirt down to about $35.

[TooOld4This]

So at 5'10" and 130lbs (I'm a waif), even the BB extra slim fit shirts have a little bit of parachute on me. They do fit better than any other dress shirt ever has, but is there any way I can get a shirt made for Flat Stanley without going MtM?

Macy's carries a good selection of slim fit, CK and at least one other brand, that are truly slim. They are almost always on sale.

[kaiser]

So at 5'10" and 130lbs (I'm a waif), even the BB extra slim fit shirts have a little bit of parachute on me. They do fit better than any other dress shirt ever has, but is there any way I can get a shirt made for Flat Stanley without going MtM?

Macy's carries a good selection of slim fit, CK and at least one other brand, that are truly slim. They are almost always on sale.

+1 to this. I've mentioned it before, but I love the CK shirts you find at Macy's. The cut is def slim, and I get nothing but compliments on those shirts, since they have some very nice subtle patterns that go well in formal biz setting. If you combine the constant sales with a Macy's card, you can probably get the shirts for around $30.

[abl]

Thanks, Pufer! I'm actually clerking right now so I know how it goes (it's entirely judge-specific). Assuming I can find one that fits, do you think a $450 suit that I pay $50 to be tailored OTR from Nordstrom Rack would be preferable to a ($500) TaT suit?

[GSCgold]

Alright, trying to budget out some money to make sure I can get everything I need for upcoming OCIs. I have a pair of black AE Cliftons now (http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/allen-edmon ... rd/2892042). I know most recommend park avenues, but are the clifton's conservative enough? I don't want to drop more money on shoes that are almost identical.

[sprezz]

black cliftons are probably conservative enough that if you already have them, it's silly to get black park avenues for the sake of having something more conservative.

i think you'd be better off with a dark brown or oxblood balmoral, in terms of filling out a rotation, than getting a black park avenue.

my answer might be different if you were considering a black plain toe balmoral in calf, but only if you really dislike brown/oxblood shoes and had the requisite liquidity. a plain toe bal in black is as formal as it gets for everyday wear and i think that would make getting a pair defensible in terms of filling a rotation, where a captoe would be a pure upgrade for interview use only but not more formal occasions, not to mention more repetitive with the clifton day-to-day. (sadly, allen edmonds doesn't make a black plain toe balmoral.)

[Bronte]

I agree that the Cliftons are fine.

[sprezz]

mid to late july brings nordstrom's anniversary sale, btw. black park avenues $230ish, AE stores will match. some other makes too (mcallister, strand--limited color-wise though). so there's that.

[FlowBro]

mid to late july brings nordstrom's anniversary sale, btw. black park avenues $230ish, AE stores will match. some other makes too (mcallister, strand--limited color-wise though). so there's that.

Presale July 10, rest of the public gets a shot on July 19th. I was told Park Ave's would be at $229.

[GSCgold]

Sounds good, ill stick with the Cliftons. I already have a pair of burgundy/oxblood AE Strands and medium brown conservative captoe cole hahn. I'm thinking that rounds out the shoe wardrobe unless I'm missing something?

Thanks for the help.

[sprezz]

yeah, you're good

[Cicero76]

Does anybody know how to tie a bowtie to where it doesn't slowly begin to tilt to the right as the day goes on? Pufer? If I ever wear one, I have to adjust it constantly to make sure it's still centered

[Blumpbeef]

Does anybody know how to tie a bowtie to where it doesn't slowly begin to tilt to the right as the day goes on? Pufer? If I ever wear one, I have to adjust it constantly to make sure it's still centered

my understanding is that adjusting it constantly just comes with the territory.

[BVest]

Does anybody know how to tie a bowtie to where it doesn't slowly begin to tilt to the right as the day goes on? Pufer? If I ever wear one, I have to adjust it constantly to make sure it's still centered

Sounds to me like you're tying a granny knot rather than a reef knot with your bow. I've never had my ties tilt.

You're probably tying your shoes wrong too.

[chrisbru]

Does anybody know how to tie a bowtie to where it doesn't slowly begin to tilt to the right as the day goes on? Pufer? If I ever wear one, I have to adjust it constantly to make sure it's still centered

Wait... People wear bowties? dafuq?

[Cicero76]

Does anybody know how to tie a bowtie to where it doesn't slowly begin to tilt to the right as the day goes on? Pufer? If I ever wear one, I have to adjust it constantly to make sure it's still centered

Wait... People wear bowties? dafuq?

Not to work, but it's fun to screw around with for social occasions

http://tietheknot.org/41291808459/
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/13/fashion/13CODES.html

[chrisbru]

Does anybody know how to tie a bowtie to where it doesn't slowly begin to tilt to the right as the day goes on? Pufer? If I ever wear one, I have to adjust it constantly to make sure it's still centered

Wait... People wear bowties? dafuq?

Not to work, but it's fun to screw around with for social occasions

http://tietheknot.org/41291808459/
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/13/fashion/13CODES.html

Alright, that is better at least. However, if I see someone wearing a bow tie, I will laugh at them a little on the inside.

[Georgia Avenue]

bow ties are great if you want everyone to know your mommy still buys your underwear