Anonymous User wrote:So I have a somewhat specific set of questions that I haven't been able to figure out through my own googling. Going anon because I think I've said what school I go to here and I'd be pretty easy to figure out with that.
I'm in a wheelchair and have been trying to figure out how that should affect the cut/lengths/etc. of my jackets and pants. For instance, if I'm always sitting, should I want my pants to fall as they would on somebody who is standing, one break over the shoe? Similar question about jackets while sitting but with the added bonus of using my upper body a lot to get around. Do you guys think that different vent types might help? I've got some pretty skinny legs, should I be looking for slim fit pants or is that something to do with tailoring? Should I never button my jacket?
I'm sure there are questions I don't know enough even to ask. If anything occurs to you all that might be helpful, I'd really appreciate it.
Differing a bit from Bronte, I might go with no break on the pants. With someone sitting, you generally expect his pants legs to ride up a few inches, showing off some sock. For example, even though Bush 41 only appears nowadays in a wheelchair, his pants appear to have all been tailored when he was standing up; thus, his colorful sock collection is now always on display. While I think it would be silly to tailor your pants so that they are perpetually ridden-up, going with even a half break might also look similarly out of place if someone was really paying attention to that. Thus, I think I might split the difference with my pants tailored with no break (at the top of the shoe, just covering the sock) when sitting. However, my suggestion would be to have your tailor pin up varying breaks and let you look at them in the mirror. Even if there is a rule on this someplace, nobody will know what it is (including the vast majority of tailors), so I don't think you can go wrong with just going with whatever you prefer.
I tend to think double-vented suits look better when someone is sitting than single-vented suits, double-vented is more comfortable while sitting in my opinion, and the back on the double-vented jacket will wrinkle less (even if you're never getting up for someone to see your back, the wrinkles are resulting from either the bunching or the stretching of the garment, so there's probably some level of longevity bonus with double vented for someone who is always sitting). Also, with a double-vented suit, it would be easier to move the side panels out of the way so you can access your pants pockets or if there's something you need to get to at your side.
I'd focus mostly on the jacket's fit rather than worrying too much about the pants because it probably won't be that big a deal to bring in and retaper the legs no matter what size jacket you end up with to accomodate your larger upper body. I'd also suggest trying a couple shorter jackets than your height might otherwise suggest. A lot of jacket length is based on not seeing the sides of one's shirt when one's arms are raised while standing, and making sure that the jacket bottom doesn't flare out at your hips while standing. Neither of those considerations would really apply in a wheelchair, and I could see less fabric bunched at your sides being a benefit both for comfort and for perhaps making the jacket look more fitted. There's typically enough sleeve length even in extra short jackets to accomodate a wide range of the most common arm lengths.
I agree with Bronte's suggestion of going unbuttoned.