theavrock wrote:Anyone have recommendations for finding a good tailor and/or communicating with them?
I took a OTR suit to one and I still don't really like the way it fits, but I can't really put my finger on why. I don't really know how a suits supposed to fit and telling them I just don't want to look like a slob doesn't seem to be the right response.
Everyone on here says have your suit tailored but fuck if I know what that means. I wear t shirts and jeans all the damn time
Finding a good tailor is easier in a big city. If you're in a major metropolitan area, there should be an abundance of tailors to choose from. The best place to start is to use Yelp.com and Google to read reviews. Look in particular at the negative reviews; a lot of tailors will have a lot of rave reviews, but sometimes the content of any negative reviews can set them apart.
Once you've found a tailor, you can still end up with an unsatisfactory result for a number of reasons. Although incompetence is certainly one of them, it sounds to me like the problem you're having is that your tailor is giving you what many of her customers want: a baggy suit. If you look at the average guy wearing a suit, he's wearing it with a full break at the cuff (or more), with the no shirt sleeve showing, with a lot of slack in waste of the jacket, etc. This is the 80s and 90s look that a lot of suit-wearers are used to, but that you really want to avoid.
When you go to the tailor, you should wear dress shoes, a dress belt, a dress shirt, and even preferably a tie. You should tell the tailor in general what you're looking for: a close-fitting, contemporary cut. Then you can ask for some of the following specific alterations.
There's a few core alterations that will make a suit fit well. First, the shoulders of the jacket should not extend past your shoulders. This is something that should be figured out when you're choosing what size jacket to get. However, if you made a mistake, a tailor can fix it, although it will be expensive. Second, the pants should be fitted at the waste and at the cuff. The cuff can be either a full, half, or no break. I would go with half break.
Third, the waist of the jacket should be suppressed ("brought in"). This is important to the suit not looking "slobby." However, too much suppression can result in the suit looking maybe a bit too trendy. Fourth, the sleeves should be shortened. You want between a quarter and half inch of your shirt cuff to protrude from your jacket sleeve when your arm is at your side. Finally, you can have the tailor slim the sleeves of the jacket and even the legs of the pants.
Some further reading: http://artofmanliness.com/2010/02/26/th ... man-needs/
; http://www.gq.com/style/style-manual/20 ... it#slide=3