OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

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Hawkeye Pierce
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Hawkeye Pierce » Thu Jul 21, 2011 8:20 pm

Bronte wrote:Honestly, people are not as intense about attire IRL as they are on TLS. I think it would be fine for an interview, but I would consider trying to get two two-buttons on the cheap, like maybe at a Brooks Bros. Outlet, where I think the deal is often something like two for $300.


That's a good point. I got this one from Nordstrom Rack for like $250 (used to be $700) and was attracted by the Hugo Boss name. From now on I'll just stick to vented two-button suits. Not like I'll never wear this charcoal gray one though.

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leobowski
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby leobowski » Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:39 pm

Sick find! Ebay can be good for used shoes. Get some shoe cream and you could restore em pretty good. Shoe trees are also a must have.

Renzo
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Renzo » Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:52 pm

Hawkeye Pierce wrote:
Hmmm, okay. So would you say a three-button charcoal would still be acceptable for wearing around the office after being hired?

There's nothing wrong with three button, especially if it's otherwise conservative. Two button suits are always in fashion, three buttons come and go. Right now they're sort of "out," but suits last longer than fashions so you'd see plenty of three button suits in any given law firm on any given day; not to mention plenty of people just prefer them and buy them no matter what the fashion.

If you were going to go buy a suit, getting a two button is the more conservative (therefore better) choice, but there's no reason to feel like you need to junk a three button suit you already own.

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5ky
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby 5ky » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:44 pm

If you have a three button, ventless suit already, it's fine - don't go out and buy a different one. If you're shopping from scratch, sure, I'd nudge you towards a two button vented, but it's not that big of a deal.

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Veyron
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Veyron » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:48 pm

Renzo wrote:
Hawkeye Pierce wrote:
Hmmm, okay. So would you say a three-button charcoal would still be acceptable for wearing around the office after being hired?

There's nothing wrong with three button, especially if it's otherwise conservative. Two button suits are always in fashion, three buttons come and go. Right now they're sort of "out," but suits last longer than fashions so you'd see plenty of three button suits in any given law firm on any given day; not to mention plenty of people just prefer them and buy them no matter what the fashion.

If you were going to go buy a suit, getting a two button is the more conservative (therefore better) choice, but there's no reason to feel like you need to junk a three button suit you already own.


Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.
Last edited by Veyron on Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Hawkeye Pierce
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Hawkeye Pierce » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:54 pm

Haha alright, thanks for all the input.

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Bronte
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Bronte » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:10 pm

Veyron wrote:Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.


2 rolls 3s? What?

Renzo
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Renzo » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:20 pm

Bronte wrote:
Veyron wrote:Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.


2 rolls 3s? What?


Srsly. And that's after at least one edit...

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Emma.
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Emma. » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:41 pm

Bronte wrote:
Veyron wrote:Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.


2 rolls 3s? What?


It's a 3 button suit cut so when the top button is undone it rolls with the lapel and the suit basically looks like a 2 button.

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Bronte
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Bronte » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:47 pm

Emma. wrote:
Bronte wrote:
Veyron wrote:Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.


2 rolls 3s? What?


It's a 3 button suit cut so when the top button is undone it rolls with the lapel and the suit basically looks like a 2 button.


How you extracted that from that post I cannot imagine, but that's false. Three button suits have a shorter "V" lapel to account for the three buttons and a proportionally longer torso, which is what makes them look wack. Further, you only fasten one button on a two button suit, so it will never look the same as a three button under any circumstances.

Also, two button suits are not for "stout" people lol. Two button suits are the all time classic that you will see everyone wearing, from fit Hollywood types to portly big law attorneys. They look better on pretty much everyone, as pufer demonstrated with a sequence of photos above.

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Emma.
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Emma. » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:50 pm

Bronte wrote:
Emma. wrote:
Bronte wrote:
Veyron wrote:Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.


2 rolls 3s? What?


It's a 3 button suit cut so when the top button is undone it rolls with the lapel and the suit basically looks like a 2 button.


How you extracted that from that post I cannot imagine, but that's false. Three button suits have a shorter "V" lapel to account for the three buttons and a proportionally longer torso, which is what makes them look wack. Further, you only fasten one button on a two button suit, so it will never look the same as a three button under any circumstances.

Also, two button suits are not for "stout" people lol. Two button suits are the all time classic that you will see everyone wearing, from fit Hollywood types to portly big law attorneys. They look better on pretty much everyone, as pufer demonstrated with a sequence of photos above.


WTF?

He had it round the wrong way, it is called a 3 roll 2, but it is more or less what I described:

Image

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thesealocust
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby thesealocust » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:52 pm

srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?

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GeePee
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby GeePee » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:52 pm

Bronte wrote:
Emma. wrote:
Bronte wrote:
Veyron wrote:Yah. 2 roll 3s just look better than 2's on those of us who aren't squat and round. Wearing them is my act of passive resistance to "style." I refuse to buy a new suit because some of my fellow americans cannot put the fork down.


2 rolls 3s? What?


It's a 3 button suit cut so when the top button is undone it rolls with the lapel and the suit basically looks like a 2 button.


How you extracted that from that post I cannot imagine, but that's false. Three button suits have a shorter "V" lapel to account for the three buttons and a proportionally longer torso, which is what makes them look wack. Further, you only fasten one button on a two button suit, so it will never look the same as a three button under any circumstances.

Also, two button suits are not for "stout" people lol. Two button suits are the all time classic that you will see everyone wearing, from fit Hollywood types to portly big law attorneys. They look better on pretty much everyone, as pufer demonstrated with a sequence of photos above.

It's actually a 3 roll 2 but it exists. I don't like them because the lapels are narrower.

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Emma.
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Emma. » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:53 pm

thesealocust wrote:srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?


Side tabs FTW.

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Bronte
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Bronte » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:56 pm

thesealocust wrote:srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?


Yeah it's legit and common practice with well tailored suit pants. I think a belt rounds out the outfit personally, but people rock it.

At Emma.'s three roll two, I have never heard of or seen that in my life and was not aware you were referring to a unique cut suit. I do not see the point of that suit, but that just goes into another realm of obscurity that is not going to be appropriate in almost any business circumstances, IMO.

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GeePee
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby GeePee » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:57 pm

thesealocust wrote:srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?

It's a British trend for people that want to show off that they have custom-made (e.g. bespoke) or well tailored suit that fits perfectly. I don't buy into it but it's gained in popularity over the last 3-5 years. There's been a bit of a push-back against this, though, with even GQ saying that it's awkward to wear a pair of slacks with belt loops without a belt.

Anonymous User
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Anonymous User » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:58 pm

Okay, relevant question.

I'm slightly on the short side (around 5'8") and thin (about 140 lbs, waist around 29"). More importantly, I have a very weird torso-to-leg proportion: tiny torso, long legs. Despite being 5'8", I wear a ~32-34" pant leg; 33" is ideal.

This makes me have real trouble finding ties that don't look ridiculously long. (Everything else is fine tailored, but ties of course are not usually tailored.) Ordinary tie lengths tend to come down well below my belt even when pulled exactly even. My solution to this has always been tying extra-large knots to use up material (always wear a full Windsor and do an extra loop on each side), but my sense is that this creates a knot that might look weirdly bulky to an interviewer, especially on my small frame. Recommendations on finding ties that fit me better or what to do to make ordinary ties not look strange?

Thanks in advance.

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vamedic03
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby vamedic03 » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:59 pm

Bronte wrote:
thesealocust wrote:srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?


Yeah it's legit and common practice with well tailored suit pants. I think a belt rounds out the outfit personally, but people rock it.

At Emma.'s three roll two, I have never heard of or seen that in my life and was not aware you were referring to a unique cut suit. I do not see the point of that suit, but that just goes into another realm of obscurity that is not going to be appropriate in almost any business circumstances, IMO.


Dude, it's a traditional sack suit. J.Press has been making them since before your dad was born. A 3/2 roll is not "another realm of obscurity", rather it's just a very, very traditional style.

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Emma.
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Emma. » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:59 pm

Bronte wrote:
thesealocust wrote:srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?


Yeah it's legit and common practice with well tailored suit pants. I think a belt rounds out the outfit personally, but people rock it.

At Emma.'s three roll two, I have never heard of or seen that in my life and was not aware you were referring to a unique cut suit. I do not see the point of that suit, but that just goes into another realm of obscurity that is not going to be appropriate in almost any business circumstances, IMO.


Lulz.

"The 3-roll-2 is a compromise. It’s found on many Savile Row single-breasteds, and is the classic buttoning for the undarted Ivy League-style “sack” suit. It’s the opposite of tacky - the epitome of class."

"...probably the most classic suit buttoning style, the 3-roll-2..."

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Emma.
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Emma. » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:00 am

GeePee wrote:
thesealocust wrote:srs question: I always assumed belts were mandatory as a part of the outfit, not just for practical reasons, but I occasionally see people beltless (and suspenderless). Is that legit?

It's a British trend for people that want to show off that they have custom-made (e.g. bespoke) or well tailored suit that fits perfectly. I don't buy into it but it's gained in popularity over the last 3-5 years. There's been a bit of a push-back against this, though, with even GQ saying that it's awkward to wear a pair of slacks with belt loops without a belt.


If you have custom made pants you get them made without the beltloops. I totally agree it would be ridiculous to wear a suit with beltloops but no belt.

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Bronte
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Bronte » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:02 am

Anonymous User wrote:Okay, relevant question.

I'm slightly on the short side (around 5'8") and thin (about 140 lbs, waist around 29"). More importantly, I have a very weird torso-to-leg proportion: tiny torso, long legs. Despite being 5'8", I wear a ~32-34" pant leg; 33" is ideal.

This makes me have real trouble finding ties that don't look ridiculously long. (Everything else is fine tailored, but ties of course are not usually tailored.) Ordinary tie lengths tend to come down well below my belt even when pulled exactly even. My solution to this has always been tying extra-large knots to use up material (always wear a full Windsor and do an extra loop on each side), but my sense is that this creates a knot that might look weirdly bulky to an interviewer, especially on my small frame. Recommendations on finding ties that fit me better or what to do to make ordinary ties not look strange?

Thanks in advance.


Interesting, I would try to find a custom tie maker online or brick-and-mortar that's not outrageous expensive, but might be easier said than done. However, if the tie know doesn't look weird, you're probably okay. Make sure to get a really tight knot by really cinching each step in the process. Maybe post a pic?

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Emma.
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Emma. » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:03 am

Anonymous User wrote:Okay, relevant question.

I'm slightly on the short side (around 5'8") and thin (about 140 lbs, waist around 29"). More importantly, I have a very weird torso-to-leg proportion: tiny torso, long legs. Despite being 5'8", I wear a ~32-34" pant leg; 33" is ideal.

This makes me have real trouble finding ties that don't look ridiculously long. (Everything else is fine tailored, but ties of course are not usually tailored.) Ordinary tie lengths tend to come down well below my belt even when pulled exactly even. My solution to this has always been tying extra-large knots to use up material (always wear a full Windsor and do an extra loop on each side), but my sense is that this creates a knot that might look weirdly bulky to an interviewer, especially on my small frame. Recommendations on finding ties that fit me better or what to do to make ordinary ties not look strange?

Thanks in advance.


I think your best bet is to get your ties shortened at a place like this: --LinkRemoved--

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GeePee
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby GeePee » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:06 am

Anonymous User wrote:Okay, relevant question.

I'm slightly on the short side (around 5'8") and thin (about 140 lbs, waist around 29"). More importantly, I have a very weird torso-to-leg proportion: tiny torso, long legs. Despite being 5'8", I wear a ~32-34" pant leg; 33" is ideal.

This makes me have real trouble finding ties that don't look ridiculously long. (Everything else is fine tailored, but ties of course are not usually tailored.) Ordinary tie lengths tend to come down well below my belt even when pulled exactly even. My solution to this has always been tying extra-large knots to use up material (always wear a full Windsor and do an extra loop on each side), but my sense is that this creates a knot that might look weirdly bulky to an interviewer, especially on my small frame. Recommendations on finding ties that fit me better or what to do to make ordinary ties not look strange?

Thanks in advance.

Possible solutions:
I'm not sure where you wear your pants, but with a frame like yours it's acceptable to wear your trousers closer to the hips than the waist (which is standard for most men). This will give you some extra room to play with.

Look into boys' ties. The selection is usually somewhat less conservative, but you'll probably be able to find something acceptable for OCI

(Not recommended) Tie your tie so that the front falls to the proper length; tuck back of tie into shirt between buttons. This is a last-ditch solution that I would avoid if at all possible.

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quakeroats
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby quakeroats » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:07 am

Anonymous User wrote:Okay, relevant question.

I'm slightly on the short side (around 5'8") and thin (about 140 lbs, waist around 29"). More importantly, I have a very weird torso-to-leg proportion: tiny torso, long legs. Despite being 5'8", I wear a ~32-34" pant leg; 33" is ideal.

This makes me have real trouble finding ties that don't look ridiculously long. (Everything else is fine tailored, but ties of course are not usually tailored.) Ordinary tie lengths tend to come down well below my belt even when pulled exactly even. My solution to this has always been tying extra-large knots to use up material (always wear a full Windsor and do an extra loop on each side), but my sense is that this creates a knot that might look weirdly bulky to an interviewer, especially on my small frame. Recommendations on finding ties that fit me better or what to do to make ordinary ties not look strange?

Thanks in advance.


I have the same problem the other way. Try moving to a Windsor knot and using lots of material in it.

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Bronte
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Re: Lets talk OCI suits (particularly shirts)

Postby Bronte » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:08 am

Emma. wrote:Lulz.

"The 3-roll-2 is a compromise. It’s found on many Savile Row single-breasteds, and is the classic buttoning for the undarted Ivy League-style “sack” suit. It’s the opposite of tacky - the epitome of class."

"...probably the most classic suit buttoning style, the 3-roll-2..."


Many Sevile Row suits are extremely fashion forward, even if derived from "classic Ivy League style," which itself is usually inappropriate for business dress as a category. For example, the fact that the the three roll two is a classic sack suit says it all: sack suits are basically for summer wear at cocktail hour, not for business wear.

And I don't know how the three roll two could under any circumstances be considered the classic suit buttoning style when the standard two button is obviously, indisputably the classic suit buttoning style. And we're talking about American fashion here. Does Brooks Brothers make a three roll two as a flagship line? Does Paul Stuart? Does J. Press?




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