OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

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Pufer
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Pufer » Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:47 am

kalvano wrote:
Borhas wrote:how far down is the tie supposed to reach? down to the belt buckle? slightly below? above?



The tip of the tie should be just at the belt buckle. Some say it's OK for the tip of the tie to fall at about the belly button, but that looks weird to me.


If anyone says that the tip of your tie should hit anywhere above your beltline, they're not worth listening to. A good rule of thumb is to tie your tie so that the end hits in the center of your belt. That way, should your pants slip a bit during normal wear, you will still look good, whereas you'll still be in compliance with the more basic rule that your tie should hit your belt buckle to some extent or another. Tying your tie a half-inch long is vastly preferable to tying it too short.

-Pufer

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Stanford4Me
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Stanford4Me » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:25 pm

GeePee wrote:Anyone have any way of getting dress shirts in uncommon sizes without paying upwards of $100/shirt for custom-made shirts? I wear 15.5/37 and I can't find a single retailer that sells the size -- I've even resorted to Big&Tall shops, only to realize that Big&Tall is code for "fat people, some of whom happen to be tall."

I'm asking because I'm poor, only have 2 properly-fitting dress shirts, and am in desperate need of more for OCI.

Shipping is a little slow, but it's worth the wait:

http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/default.aspx? ... ||||||||||

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skers
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby skers » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:31 pm

Stanford4Me wrote:
GeePee wrote:Anyone have any way of getting dress shirts in uncommon sizes without paying upwards of $100/shirt for custom-made shirts? I wear 15.5/37 and I can't find a single retailer that sells the size -- I've even resorted to Big&Tall shops, only to realize that Big&Tall is code for "fat people, some of whom happen to be tall."

I'm asking because I'm poor, only have 2 properly-fitting dress shirts, and am in desperate need of more for OCI.

Shipping is a little slow, but it's worth the wait:

http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/default.aspx? ... ||||||||||


+1000 on this. Absolutely fucking fantastic dress shirts.

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GeePee
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby GeePee » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:56 pm

TemporarySaint wrote:
Stanford4Me wrote:
GeePee wrote:Anyone have any way of getting dress shirts in uncommon sizes without paying upwards of $100/shirt for custom-made shirts? I wear 15.5/37 and I can't find a single retailer that sells the size -- I've even resorted to Big&Tall shops, only to realize that Big&Tall is code for "fat people, some of whom happen to be tall."

I'm asking because I'm poor, only have 2 properly-fitting dress shirts, and am in desperate need of more for OCI.

Shipping is a little slow, but it's worth the wait:

http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/default.aspx? ... ||||||||||


+1000 on this. Absolutely fucking fantastic dress shirts.

Clutch. Thanks guys -- just ordered 3.

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James Bond
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby James Bond » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:58 pm

Just stopping in to say that Charles Tyrwhitt is the truth. Absolutely love my shirts from them. Debating on whether or not to try a suit from there just to see.

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Thirteen
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Thirteen » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:08 pm

James Bond wrote:Just stopping in to say that Charles Tyrwhitt is the truth. Absolutely love my shirts from them. Debating on whether or not to try a suit from there just to see.


Are they true to size for the sleeve length? I'm a true 37", and they only have one 16.5" 38" shirt on sale (they have like 90 of the 36"). I want to try the 36', but don't know if it'll be too short. 6'7" wingspan ftl.

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James Bond
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby James Bond » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:14 pm

Thirteen wrote:
James Bond wrote:Just stopping in to say that Charles Tyrwhitt is the truth. Absolutely love my shirts from them. Debating on whether or not to try a suit from there just to see.


Are they true to size for the sleeve length? I'm a true 37", and they only have one 16.5" 38" shirt on sale (they have like 90 of the 36"). I want to try the 36', but don't know if it'll be too short. 6'7" wingspan ftl.


I wish I knew what to tell you :|

I'd say go long. If it's too long, you can always get it taken back a bit, but if it's too short you're kinda sunk

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Thirteen
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Thirteen » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:25 pm

James Bond wrote:
Thirteen wrote:
James Bond wrote:Just stopping in to say that Charles Tyrwhitt is the truth. Absolutely love my shirts from them. Debating on whether or not to try a suit from there just to see.


Are they true to size for the sleeve length? I'm a true 37", and they only have one 16.5" 38" shirt on sale (they have like 90 of the 36"). I want to try the 36', but don't know if it'll be too short. 6'7" wingspan ftl.


I wish I knew what to tell you :|

I'd say go long. If it's too long, you can always get it taken back a bit, but if it's too short you're kinda sunk


Fuck. Guess I'll have to limit my shopping on the site to ties.

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Borhas
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Borhas » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:35 pm

Pufer, you ever think about giving up the law and becoming a tailor?

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Pufer
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Pufer » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:20 pm

Borhas wrote:Pufer, you ever think about giving up the law and becoming a tailor?


Would be rather a waste of the JD. On the other hand, I wouldn't have to keep doing this bar prep stuff... :wink:

-Pufer

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kalvano
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby kalvano » Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:21 pm

James Bond wrote:Just stopping in to say that Charles Tyrwhitt is the truth. Absolutely love my shirts from them. Debating on whether or not to try a suit from there just to see.



How do their slim fits compare with Brooks Brothers? The BB slim fits fit me perfectly. Are the CT ones bigger or smaller?

Also, does anyone have a suit from them? Are they the Euro slim fit crap, or are they are a more traditional suit? I have a couple English suits and they tend to be more traditional, but I'm not sure if these CT suits fit like that. But their prices are stellar.

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emciosn
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby emciosn » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:00 am

This thread has pretty much transformed my wardrobe this summer. Thanks everyone (especially Pufer).

Question: I really try to stick with non-iron shirts because I lack ironing skills and don't get my shirts dry cleaned. A lot of shirts that advertise they are non-wrinkle in fact are not. I was walking through the mall the other day and the Jos A Bank lady told me that their wrinkle free shirts have been voted the best for like three years. Anyone know if the shirts are really very good?

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traehekat
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby traehekat » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:04 am

emciosn wrote:This thread has pretty much transformed my wardrobe this summer. Thanks everyone (especially Pufer).

Question: I really try to stick with non-iron shirts because I lack ironing skills and don't get my shirts dry cleaned. A lot of shirts that advertise they are non-wrinkle in fact are not. I was walking through the mall the other day and the Jos A Bank lady told me that their wrinkle free shirts have been voted the best for like three years. Anyone know if the shirts are really very good?


in my limited experience it seems that you can't really get around ironing your shirts.

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Rooney
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Rooney » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:25 am

I hate Jos A. Bank shirts everything. The only truly non-iron shirts I've had are from Banana Republic. That's about all I buy from them.

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kalvano
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby kalvano » Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:14 pm

emciosn wrote:This thread has pretty much transformed my wardrobe this summer. Thanks everyone (especially Pufer).

Question: I really try to stick with non-iron shirts because I lack ironing skills and don't get my shirts dry cleaned. A lot of shirts that advertise they are non-wrinkle in fact are not. I was walking through the mall the other day and the Jos A Bank lady told me that their wrinkle free shirts have been voted the best for like three years. Anyone know if the shirts are really very good?



Brooks Brothers non-iron are truly non-iron, and my favorite. I have some of the J. Banks, and they are OK. Not as good as the BB.

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HenryKillinger
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby HenryKillinger » Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:47 pm

Rooney wrote:I hate Jos A. Bank shirts everything. The only truly non-iron shirts I've had are from Banana Republic. That's about all I buy from them.

They make some quality ties, but the patterns are always too flashy. I bought a pretty sweet single-breasted 3/4 length overcoat from them during their Christmas sale last year. Other than that, better to stick to casual (sweaters, chinos, polos) and business casual (shirts, slacks) from Banana.

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Pufer
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Pufer » Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:37 pm

emciosn wrote:This thread has pretty much transformed my wardrobe this summer. Thanks everyone (especially Pufer).

Question: I really try to stick with non-iron shirts because I lack ironing skills and don't get my shirts dry cleaned. A lot of shirts that advertise they are non-wrinkle in fact are not. I was walking through the mall the other day and the Jos A Bank lady told me that their wrinkle free shirts have been voted the best for like three years. Anyone know if the shirts are really very good?


I am not aware of anybody who has ranked wrinkle free shirts each of the last three years. The only thing I can think of is that Consumer Reports has reported that JAB Traveler shirts are among their five recommended wrinkle free shirts in their last three big review books, but I think it's based on only one review back in 2007.

CR basically found that the BB wrinkle frees are no better than the Stafford or LL Bean wrinkle frees, but for double the price. The JAB Traveler were found to be the most wrinkle free of the wrinkle frees (the only one they found that you could leave in the dryer for a while after it finished and not worry about) and comparatively soft and supple, but CR couldn't bring itself to crown the JAB shirts with the win because of the list price.

Various other reviews of wrinkle free shirts come up over time, and you generally find LL Bean, BB, Nordstrom, and the JAB Traveler line amongst the finalists. It's typically between the JAB and Nordstrom shirts for the win.

In my opinion, the LL Bean shirts are better than most other wrinkle frees at their price range, but are nothing to write home about (i.e., they're slightly better in finish quality than what you could get for $10 at Ross/TJ Maxx, but they're quadruple the price).

The BB wrinkle frees probably have the best finish quality and attention to detail of the lot, but they also have the worst-feeling/most brittle cloth of the bunch (a sentiment agreed with by most reviews, who also tend to question the longevity of the BB wrinkle frees, which is something I can't speak to). As such, I feel that they're wildly overpriced, and most reviews agree.

There is nothing at all wrong with Nordstrom wrinkle frees. Issue is that they're a bit on the pricey side and (this most recent sale notwithstanding) rarely go on sale. Their wrinkle free line is also fairly limited in color/cut/style choices, but the basics are definitely there.

The JAB Traveler line (there's also a Signature line of wrinkle frees that aren't worth the price) is every bit as good as the Nordstrom line (and at least a couple reviews give the JAB line the edge on longevity), except that you can get a Traveler shirt in any color of the rainbow, with any style that JAB makes. Going back to the CR review, the issue is, again, the list price.

Of course, it's JAB. You could pay $75 for a JAB Traveler shirt, or you could just wait a couple weeks for them to dip below $50. At the sale prices, JAB Traveler shirts are by far the best choice amongst the common wrinkle free shirts. That said, I wouldn't make a blanket endorsement of them.

The issue with the JAB Traveler shirts is that they are cut like all other JAB shirts. The regular fit is among the hugest of the huge. The "tailored fit" is all but necessary for anyone under double their ideal weight, but still won't be mistaken for a slim fit shirt. If you're average-sized to fat, JAB is definitely the way to go. If you trend towards rail-thin, the Nordstrom line will have more for you, albeit at a higher price.

As to Banana Republic, regardless of how great the fabric may be, you shouldn't buy a dress shirt sized simply "XL." Banana Republic's sleeve lengths are too long at every size (the average sized guy, regardless of girth, has a sleeve length somewhere around 33 or 34; an XL shirt from Banana has 35.5 inch sleeves, quite possibly 2-2.5 inches too long for the average American (and the average American does wear size XL) who would buy one - if he wore size small, however, the average height guy would have perfect sleeves). Banana has some nice stuff (although I think their ties have fallen off these last couple seasons), but I'm not sure that it's really the place to go for professional garb.


The traditional case against wrinkle frees is that (1) they don't breathe, (2) they are short-lived, and (3) a few wrinkles shows off the quality of your shirt. As to 1, that may still be true with whatever wrinkle frees they sell at Sears or something, but most quality wrinkle free shirts breathe as well as any other three-season shirt nowadays. It might still matter if you regularly deal with 100% humidity during the summer, but, if you're wearing a suit anyway, the breathability of your shirt probably isn't what you'll be worrying about.

As to 2, yeah, they're not as long-lived as regular cotton shirts. You'll only be able to wear your wrinkle free every couple weeks for the next three years instead of four. This is not something I would worry too much about, especially if you're like me and don't wear shirts for their full usable lives to begin with.

As to 3, even I'm not going to notice that shit, and nobody else will either. Further, the average person on the street will think less of you if you have a few wrinkles to show off that you're not common enough to own a wrinkle-free shirt, as most folks figure that you shouldn't be wrinkled.

My own thing is that wrinkle free doesn't really mean iron free. You can totally get away without ironing a wrinkle free shirt, but I just think they look better when they are ironed/pressed (i.e., everyday use is fine without ironing, but I'd get that shirt professionally pressed for an interview/trial, even if it is wrinkle free - no starch). For me, the benefit of a wrinkle free shirt (and about half of my shirts are wrinkle free) is that it doesn't wrinkle during the day, not during a wash. Thus, if you want to take off your suit jacket at 2 PM to be more comfy while you take care of some brief writing at your desk, your shirt still looks totally fresh and acceptable should the boss walk in with that new client. Big plus in my opinion, without too many tradeoffs in this day and age.

-Pufer

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kalvano
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby kalvano » Fri Jun 24, 2011 2:02 pm

A few points -

My BB no-iron shirts are far better quality than the J. Banks no-iron. The J. Banks that I have fray easily and generally fall apart, particularly around the cuffs and the button line. The BB last much longer. They are thin, though. Living in Texas, that's very nice, but they tend to rip easier, so you have to be careful. However, the stitching and craftsmanship on a day-to-day basis is much better for BB. They look like nicer shirts. I have some BB no-irons that are 3 or 4 years old and still look great. None of my J. Banks lasted anywhere near that long.

Also, like Pufer said, the J. Banks shirts are cut like parachutes. I'm not a small guy, and even the tailored fit looks bad on me. The BB slim fit is much, much better.

However, I saw that BB raised their prices, which makes me question the value of those shirts now. At $150 for 3, they were great. At $209 for three, I'm not so sure.

Now, someone answer my question abut the CT versus BB shirts.

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HenryKillinger
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby HenryKillinger » Fri Jun 24, 2011 3:09 pm

Pufer wrote:As to Banana Republic, regardless of how great the fabric may be, you shouldn't buy a dress shirt sized simply "XL." Banana Republic's sleeve lengths are too long at every size (the average sized guy, regardless of girth, has a sleeve length somewhere around 33 or 34; an XL shirt from Banana has 35.5 inch sleeves, quite possibly 2-2.5 inches too long for the average American (and the average American does wear size XL) who would buy one - if he wore size small, however, the average height guy would have perfect sleeves). Banana has some nice stuff (although I think their ties have fallen off these last couple seasons), but I'm not sure that it's really the place to go for professional garb.

My theory on Banana Republic is that their clothing isn't necessarily made for the "average american" but for the average Banana Republic customer who is generally slimmer and/or taller than the average American. At least this seems to be the focus of all their marketing material. So while the average American who wears an XL is a certain height and might have 33-34 inch sleeves, the average Banana Republic Customer wearing an XL will be taller and have longer arms. I'm realizing that this has no real bearing on the discussion other than to say that if you're tall or athletically built, Banana Republic might have a better fit for you OTR, however it is an interesting thing to think about.

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Kilpatrick
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Kilpatrick » Fri Jun 24, 2011 3:27 pm

Can anybody recommend a good wallet? (Not technically part of a suit, but definitely not worth its own thread)

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fatduck
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby fatduck » Fri Jun 24, 2011 3:30 pm

Kilpatrick wrote:Can anybody recommend a good wallet? (Not technically part of a suit, but definitely not worth its own thread)

i recently bought an eelskin (hagfish, technically) leather wallet that i really like. wallets are really dependent on personal taste, though. i can't stand a bulky wallet, so i bought one with no cash pocket - just a few card slots and a money clip - so it stays slim.

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leobowski
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby leobowski » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:14 pm

Pufer wrote:
I am not aware of anybody who has ranked wrinkle free shirts each of the last three years. The only thing I can think of is that Consumer Reports has reported that JAB Traveler shirts are among their five recommended wrinkle free shirts in their last three big review books, but I think it's based on only one review back in 2007.

CR basically found that the BB wrinkle frees are no better than the Stafford or LL Bean wrinkle frees, but for double the price. The JAB Traveler were found to be the most wrinkle free of the wrinkle frees (the only one they found that you could leave in the dryer for a while after it finished and not worry about) and comparatively soft and supple, but CR couldn't bring itself to crown the JAB shirts with the win because of the list price.

Various other reviews of wrinkle free shirts come up over time, and you generally find LL Bean, BB, Nordstrom, and the JAB Traveler line amongst the finalists. It's typically between the JAB and Nordstrom shirts for the win.



He might be referring to this study a few years back by WSJ, which found jos bank traveler's shirt to be the best: http://www.businesswire.com/news/google ... 4006009/en

I personally like them. If you wait for a really good sale you can get them at about $40 a pop, and those beat the pants off others in the price range. It's also really difficult to find wrinkle-free 100% cotton shirts at Ross or TJ Maxx. This may just be a personal idiosyncrasy, but I can't stand shirts or suits with any polyester in them.

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Pufer
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Pufer » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:48 pm

kalvano wrote:My BB no-iron shirts are far better quality than the J. Banks no-iron. The J. Banks that I have fray easily and generally fall apart, particularly around the cuffs and the button line. The BB last much longer. They are thin, though. Living in Texas, that's very nice, but they tend to rip easier, so you have to be careful. However, the stitching and craftsmanship on a day-to-day basis is much better for BB. They look like nicer shirts. I have some BB no-irons that are 3 or 4 years old and still look great. None of my J. Banks lasted anywhere near that long.


I have a couple JAB Traveler line shirts that have lasted me 4+ years and still look fine, without any fraying or any other such stuff. The Traveler line also tends to get a lot of love on Ask Andy, which would lead me to believe that my experience isn't isolated. Consumer Reports reported the JAB line standing up a lot better than the BB line as well. Other JAB shirt lines (including the Signature no-iron) leave much to be desired, however.

That said, might be a matter of who is using them. It would not at all surprise me if shirts brands tend to be more durable on one guy as opposed to another guy. :)

kalvano wrote:However, I saw that BB raised their prices, which makes me question the value of those shirts now. At $150 for 3, they were great. At $209 for three, I'm not so sure.


And I think that's really the bottom line. JAB will commonly put up $120 for 3 Traveler shirt deals, and occasionally dip below $100 for three. Even if BB shirts are superior (and they certainly are in terms of detailing), I tend to think that they're not so superior as to be worth the extra cost.

Kilpatrick wrote:Can anybody recommend a good wallet? (Not technically part of a suit, but definitely not worth its own thread)


I have a Coach double billfold wallet. They don't appear to make the precise model I have any longer, but the Water Buffalo Double Billfold (74010 in black) is pretty close. Very thin for a wallet with so much space, and extremely durable (I have around five years of everyday use on the wallet and it still looks perfect - no wear at all; I'd be very surprised if it didn't still look great in another five years).

leobowski wrote:He might be referring to this study a few years back by WSJ, which found jos bank traveler's shirt to be the best: http://www.businesswire.com/news/google ... 4006009/en


Yeah, but they haven't repeated that test each of the last three years (at least as far as I'm aware). It was actually that WSJ article that was the impetus behind me buying my first JAB Traveler shirt.

-Pufer

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Kilpatrick
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Kilpatrick » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:51 pm

Pufer wrote:
Kilpatrick wrote:Can anybody recommend a good wallet? (Not technically part of a suit, but definitely not worth its own thread)


I have a Coach double billfold wallet. They don't appear to make the precise model I have any longer, but the Water Buffalo Double Billfold (74010 in black) is pretty close. Very thin for a wallet with so much space, and extremely durable (I have around five years of everyday use on the wallet and it still looks perfect - no wear at all; I'd be very surprised if it didn't still look great in another five years).



Somehow I knew you would have an opinion on this and I knew it would be awesome. Thanks!

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lbeezy
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby lbeezy » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:57 pm

I wish Pufer posted in threads I post in. :(




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