OCI/callbacks/etc Men's Clothing Mega-thread

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tinman
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby tinman » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:02 pm

Does anyone know a good tailor for getting a custom-made suit in NYC? and how much would it cost?

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badlydrawn
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby badlydrawn » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:12 pm

tinman wrote:Does anyone know a good tailor for getting a custom-made suit in NYC? and how much would it cost?


A charcoal two-button bespoke suit with 200s wool (I think) from Mr. Ned Custom Tailor cost me a little over $800 last year. I got in just before he raised his prices to over $900. I would highly recommend if you can afford it. I would highly recommend even if you couldn't afford it.

http://mrnednyc.com/

jrs12
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby jrs12 » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:21 pm

badlydrawn wrote:
tinman wrote:Does anyone know a good tailor for getting a custom-made suit in NYC? and how much would it cost?


A charcoal two-button bespoke suit with 200s wool (I think) from Mr. Ned Custom Tailor cost me a little over $800 last year. I got in just before he raised his prices to over $900. I would highly recommend if you can afford it. I would highly recommend even if you couldn't afford it.

http://mrnednyc.com/


I've seen a few of his suits, and they were brilliant. I'd caution the younger guys against buying 200s for two reasons: it screams, "expensive," and it's not going to last very long. Actually, as a matter of personal taste, I don't much care for the high-super suitings. On the Row, you'll find that the books are dominated by 80s and 90s. Just because the thread's a bit bigger, doesn't mean that it isn't very high quality. The slightly heftier fabric will wear harder, and won't wrinkle so easily. 10 oz is a nice weight for fabric. It's substantial, without being too heavy or warm. It's interesting to note that in the first half of the century, suits were generally over 20 oz! Some of my grandfather's suits feel like furniture upholstery. Of course, that's why they're still around.

jrs12
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby jrs12 » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:31 pm

tinman wrote:Does anyone know a good tailor for getting a custom-made suit in NYC? and how much would it cost?


It depends on what you mean by "custom made." Made-to-measure is widely available, but true bespoke is harder to find (they make an completely original pattern for you).

For MTM, the only place to go in NY is Martin Greenfield. I suppose the only exception would be a Hong Kong tailor, of which there are several options.

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badlydrawn
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby badlydrawn » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:34 pm

jrs12 wrote:
badlydrawn wrote:
tinman wrote:Does anyone know a good tailor for getting a custom-made suit in NYC? and how much would it cost?


A charcoal two-button bespoke suit with 200s wool (I think) from Mr. Ned Custom Tailor cost me a little over $800 last year. I got in just before he raised his prices to over $900. I would highly recommend if you can afford it. I would highly recommend even if you couldn't afford it.

http://mrnednyc.com/


I've seen a few of his suits, and they were brilliant. I'd caution the younger guys against buying 200s for two reasons: it screams, "expensive," and it's not going to last very long. Actually, as a matter of personal taste, I don't much care for the high-super suitings. On the Row, you'll find that the books are dominated by 80s and 90s. Just because the thread's a bit bigger, doesn't mean that it isn't very high quality. The slightly heftier fabric will wear harder, and won't wrinkle so easily. 10 oz is a nice weight for fabric. It's substantial, without being too heavy or warm. It's interesting to note that in the first half of the century, suits were generally over 20 oz! Some of my grandfather's suits feel like furniture upholstery. Of course, that's why they're still around.


Sorry, you're correct. Your post made me go check my jacket pocket; I've 120s, which were among the lowest in the store.

articulably suspect
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby articulably suspect » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:41 pm

Searsucker! I say two button and no pleats.

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ubermensch
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby ubermensch » Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:25 am

So, Jos. A Bank is having a pretty decent sale. (Buy 1 suit, get 2 free)

I only need one suit (or two at the most) so would any one like to pick out one or two suits online and we can divide up the cost? It ends up being a great deal...

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danquayle
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby danquayle » Sun Jul 19, 2009 7:34 am

I think a lot of this analysis is overdone. The bottom line is get it tailored. The majority of style is about fit.

The color doesn't seem that big of a deal provided its not outlandish. I think most of the discussion on this thread is pedantic. Grey suits are of course the most common. Dark grey with light grey stripes seems particularly particularly popular.

But, I wear black all the time and seem to do just fine. Just remember that the goal is simply to look professional, ie: appear well-groomed and generally 'with it'. There's wide latitude within that standard. Anything else is just temperamental style and personal opinion. So yes, you can have a beard and look professional. So yes, you could wear a black suit or tan suit and look professional. Hell, you could wear a bow-tie and look professional. Its been done. Just make sure the end result is something you feel professional in while wearing.

But always, always tailor. An ill fitting Armani suit will look worse than well-tailored Wal-Mart suit...

I would not suggest a jeans though. Anyone seen the 'casual friday' Curb Your Enthusiasm episode?

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Objection
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Objection » Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:25 pm

What color shoes/belt with a navy suit?

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missvik218
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby missvik218 » Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:53 pm

Objection wrote:What color shoes/belt with a navy suit?

Dark brown!

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Objection
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Objection » Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:57 pm

betasteve wrote:
Objection wrote:What color shoes/belt with a navy suit?

Brown or black. Personally, I would wear a cordovan lace up with a deep brown and matching belt.


Er, English.

Or, more precisely, pics.

It's a fairly dark navy suit.

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iminlstrick
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby iminlstrick » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:00 pm

Navy shoes, cream skinny belt (if you can pull it off), otherwise, navy skinny belt. I always do monochromatic if I can't match the colors properly. And leather, please, fork over the money, nothing more annoying than a nice suit + pleather.

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neskerdoo
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby neskerdoo » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:03 pm

Objection wrote:
betasteve wrote:
Objection wrote:What color shoes/belt with a navy suit?

Brown or black. Personally, I would wear a cordovan lace up with a deep brown and matching belt.


Er, English.

Or, more precisely, pics.

It's a fairly dark navy suit.



he's advising you to buy very expensive shoes made from horse butts

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excelsiorcaelo
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby excelsiorcaelo » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:15 pm

neskerdoo wrote:
Objection wrote:
betasteve wrote:
Objection wrote:What color shoes/belt with a navy suit?

Brown or black. Personally, I would wear a cordovan lace up with a deep brown and matching belt.


Er, English.

Or, more precisely, pics.

It's a fairly dark navy suit.



he's advising you to buy very expensive shoes made from horse butts

Horse shoes FTW!

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Objection
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby Objection » Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:02 pm

Those would look a little flashy/stand out when paired with a darker navy suit, no?

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James Bond
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby James Bond » Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:03 pm

Objection wrote:Those would look a little flashy/stand out when paired with a darker navy suit, no?


Not IMO. Maybe with all the detailing, but the color is spot on. Cordovan with navy and khaki FTW.

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missvik218
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby missvik218 » Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:33 pm

Ok, I'm going shopping with a friend & we are buying her boyfriend a new watch ... this will be for work/formal wear. I don't know anything about men's watches, etc. and neither does she. I think we're looking for something around $500, suggestions?!

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donzoli
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby donzoli » Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:41 pm

iminlstrick wrote:Navy shoes, cream skinny belt (if you can pull it off), otherwise, navy skinny belt. I always do monochromatic if I can't match the colors properly. And leather, please, fork over the money, nothing more annoying than a nice suit + pleather.



Go with leather soled shoes over rubber soles as well.

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excelsiorcaelo
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby excelsiorcaelo » Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:15 pm

missvik218 wrote:Ok, I'm going shopping with a friend & we are buying her boyfriend a new watch ... this will be for work/formal wear. I don't know anything about men's watches, etc. and neither does she. I think we're looking for something around $500, suggestions?!

I'm into simplicity, so I like a large watch face with as few distractions as possible (i.e., no mini-clocks for multiple time zones) and a plain bezel. Stainless steel band.

No gold accents or anything flashy like that. I went with a black face because I felt it would complement a dark suit better. Also, you can use it look at your reflection in a pinch!

However, it should be noted that a really nice watch can run you a lot more than $500. Just saying.

jrs12
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby jrs12 » Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:02 pm

"Cordovan" has become shorthand for a shade of burgundy. It is a good choice with navy, and can look a bit more formal than other shades of brown.

The good thing about navy is that it goes with just about anything. English tan, although less formal, can really make a navy suit pop. I often like wear dark suits with bright accessories, and bright suits with dark accessories. For example: tan shoes and bright green tie with a charcoal suit, or burgundy shoes and a navy tie with a khaki poplin suit.

Cordovan can also refer to a type of leather, which is indeed made from a horse's ass. Generally, such leather will be referred to as "shell cordovan" to avoid confusion. The horses are not raised for the leather, and each hide only produces enough leather for a single pair of shoes. The leather is produced by the Horween Tannery in Chicago, which also produces NFL balls. Supply of such shoes is limited, making them expensive. Prices have increased in recent years because these shoes have really caught fire in Japan. $600 would be a typical price. It holds colors beautifully, lasts twice as long as calfskin, and requires almost no polishing.

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missvik218
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby missvik218 » Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:10 pm

excelsiorcaelo wrote:However, it should be noted that a really nice watch can run you a lot more than $500. Just saying.

I know, I'm sure once she's out of school or he starts making the big $$ it'll be worth spending some more on, but for the time being $500 is the approximate budget. What brands/designers do you like?! We were looking at a Burberry one which was nice, and surprisingly not over branded.

jrs12
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby jrs12 » Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:18 pm

Quality is going to be comparable on most of the watches that you look at. They all buy their movements from the same people. In fact, when it comes to watches, quality is really just aesthetic, since they all do their jobs perfectly. It's nice to know that you've got a million-jeweled movement, but it's not going to really do anything for you (the way an extra couple cylinders will make a better sports car faster).

Brooks Brothers' watches are about $500, and I'm partial to some of their "tank" models (square face). I also prefer a leather band with a deployant clasp (same kind as metal bands).

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excelsiorcaelo
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby excelsiorcaelo » Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:37 pm

missvik218 wrote:
excelsiorcaelo wrote:However, it should be noted that a really nice watch can run you a lot more than $500. Just saying.

I know, I'm sure once she's out of school or he starts making the big $$ it'll be worth spending some more on, but for the time being $500 is the approximate budget. What brands/designers do you like?! We were looking at a Burberry one which was nice, and surprisingly not over branded.

I personally wear a Tag. Burberry does make some nice watches, too...

But honestly, the best thing to do would be to go to a watch store like Tourneau that sells many different brands. You really can't beat looking at watches in person.

I think Tissot makes a very nice watch that's affordable.

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excelsiorcaelo
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby excelsiorcaelo » Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:44 pm

betasteve wrote:When I start making money again, I am going with a Breitling.

I thought of mentioning Breitling, but they tend to be very expensive. They are nice watches, although generally not simple enough for my tastes.

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missvik218
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Re: Suits (Clothing, not law)

Postby missvik218 » Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:47 pm

excelsiorcaelo wrote:
betasteve wrote:When I start making money again, I am going with a Breitling.

I thought of mentioning Breitling, but they tend to be very expensive. They are nice watches, although generally not simple enough for my tastes.

I like them too! I would have pushed for one of these but she gave me the $500 cap ... someday though! Thank you for the suggestions!




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