1. Build a 6-month emergency fund (to be finished by the end of your first year of work). This is the absolute minimum amount you'll need to live suitably for six months if you lose your job. Keep this in an account that's easy to access. Maybe that's a retirement account, but I think it's a better idea to keep this in a savings account -- if you're new to finance, the last thing you want to do is to have to worry about how to pull money out of a retirement account if something bad happens. If you are single and have no obligations other than your debt, this should be somewhere in the area of (1) six month's minimum debt payments + (2) around $10,000 (your cost of living for that period). That way, if you lose your job, you can look for a new job without necessarily being on unemployment or needing loan forbearance for nearly half a year (although if you're on a four- or five-year debt repayment plan hopefully you'll be far enough ahead on your payments that you can treat the money you've saved to make minimum debt payments as extra cushion). If there's more than $20,000 or so in this account, it's worth spending some time to find a savings account that has a not totally horrible interest rate.
2. Max out your 401k and Roth IRA (if you can -- see other posts above). Preference your traditional IRA if you think you'll make more money now than in retirement. Otherwise preference your Roth IRA. Chances are you won't be making a full biglaw salary in retirement, so I'd max out your trad IRA first and always (and worry less about your Roth, which you may not be eligible for).
3. Aim to pay off your student loans in less than five years. The average biglaw associate leaves BEFORE five years are over, and you want to be in a position where if you want to leave, you'll be able to make that decision without debt hanging over your head. Maybe you want to hang your shingle. Maybe your dream job turns out being a law professor. Set yourself up so that you can pursue even super poorly paying jobs post-biglaw if that's what you end up wanting. I'd aim to pay your off in four years, and would even consider a three-year repayment plan. People on this thread will argue forever about how good of an "investment" paying off your student loans early is, but I think everyone would agree that--at the very east--it's *similarly* as good as what you'd find elsewhere. In my opinion, the value of being able to make long-term career decisions in 3-4 years without debt being a major factor outweigh whatever small advantages come from investing your money differently (and there's a strong argument to be made that you'll be BETTER off financially maximizing your loan payments -- personally, I'm far less optimistic than others on this thread and think you absolutely should not count on getting a 7% rate of return on your private investments).
Don't pay off your loans evenly -- pay the minimum payments on your lowest-interest loans until you fully pay off your highest-interest loans. E.g., if you have a minimum Perkins payment of $300/m, a minimum Stafford payment of $300/m, and a minimum Grad-Plus payment of $300/m, pay only $300/m to your Perkins and Stafford loans while paying $1500/m (or whatever you can afford/have budgeted) towards your Grad-Plus loans until they're paid off. Then shift to paying $300/m to your Perkins loans while paying $1500/m or whatever to your Stafford loans until they're all paid off. Etc.
4. Save for a house down-payment. You may think you're far away from wanting to buy a house now, but in three years you likely will not be, and you'll be glad you have this money saved up. Buying a house is a pretty great investment (as compared with renting), but you'll need to have a non-negligible amount saved before you can buy. Typically, 10% of the house value is the minimum you'll need to qualify for a decent mortgage and 20% is the minimum you'll need to get a good mortgage (b/c at that point you don't have to pay mortgage insurance anymore). You obviously have no idea how nice of a house you'll want now, and there's no reason to stress about it for the moment being, but I'd aim to have a minimum of $30,000 saved towards this over the next 4 years. If you find yourself with $10,000 left over at the end of each year, this is where I'd put it. I'd find some conservative way to invest this money -- e.g., don't have $30,000 or $50,000 or whatever sitting in a savings account. Vanguard has some pretty good low-yield funds (STAR is solid). You're not going to get rich like this, but if you can get ~3-5% annual return for this money without much risk, and can pull it out of the account at a month or two's notice, that's great.
If you follow this advice, by the end of four years (three if you're really aggressive) you should have a (1) six-month emergency fund, (2) a great start to your retirement fund, (3) no debt, and (4) >$30,000 saved towards a home. If you are still at the firm, I would then continue to budget as if you were paying loans for one more year, but put that ~$30,000 into your home down-payment account. If you choose to leave the firm at around that point you'll be able to go become a public defender or follow some other non-lucrative career path and still buy a pretty solid home. If you stay at the firm for even one more year, you'll have somewhere in the area of $60,000 to put towards a home -- even if you leave at the end of that year.
It's going to be tempting while you're at the firm to live life a bit larger -- go for the $2200 apartment (even though the $1500 place is more than nice enough in your area), get a $35,000 car (even though the $20,000 was making you super happy before), eat $20 lunches out four days a week instead of packing some days and grabbing $10 lunches the remaining days, etc. Resist this temptation as much as possible. See if you can live happily on a reasonably frugal budget, and put as much of your money into savings as possible. If, after five years you decide you love the firm life (and, just as importantly, the firm loves you), you can ratchet up your spending significantly. But you're not saving and budgeting now on the assumption that you'll make partner -- you're saving on the assumption that you WON'T (the statistically-wise choice). I think you'll find that if you live a comfortable but reasonable middle class life for the next five years, you'll be much better off if (and likely when) it comes time for you to move from the firm.